We strolled into the 26-story granite-and-glass monolith known as Five Hundred Capitol Mall and looked around the huge atrium lobby. The Petite Pedlar lunch cart was off to the side, resembling a stainless-steel lifeboat in a sea of open space.

Standing alone by the cart was Lisa Scribner, looking a bit abandoned between the breakfast rush and the lunchtime crush.

"The customer base in this area is especially savvy about embracing a cart-type business that offers gourmet-type food," she said during our chat.

Scribner has had plenty of cart experience: She founded Morning Brew at 11th and Q streets, for instance. She recently teamed with chef Tod Bullen, who's back in Sacramento from New York City after years of involvement in the restaurant scene there. The Pedlar opened five weeks ago.

What's on the menu? Start with coffee drinks made from organic Equator-brand fair-trade java and move on to teas, granola, bagels and piles of pastries from the estimable Bella Bru bakery.

Then things get more serious with Bullen's homemade soups and stews, and sandwiches on Bella Bru rustic rolls and baguettes. Add tamales and burritos from Sinaloa Mexican restaurant on Stockton Boulevard.

The day we dropped by, the soups were black bean with cilantro, topped with crème fraîche (similar to sour cream); and luscious cream-based pumpkin-walnut. Alas, no stew on that day, but they include Asian, chicken and beef bourguignon.

"My soups are inspired by the seasons and will rotate," Bullen said. "I'll probably serve 75 different kinds over the course of a year."

Sandwiches included turkey meatloaf, Nicoise-style tuna salad, prosciutto with brie and apple, turkey with provolone and pesto, veggie and a daily special, which happened to be roasted chicken with balsamic vinaigrette.

Catering – yes. Credit cards – no.

Le Petite Pedlar is at 500 Capitol Mall, (916) 337-6425. Hours are 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday.

Soft-shell crabs at Buonarroti

Unlike Scotch whisky, soft-shell crabs are not an acquired taste. Diners either love them or they don't.

Our attitude is: the more, the merrier. That's why we rejoiced the other day when we discovered them on offer at the four-star Buonarroti Ristorante.

For $13, you get two beer-battered, fried crabs drizzled with chipotle aioli and served with a small garden salad and bread, said owner Daniel Alcantaro. The crabs will be available through November.

Buonarroti is in Town & Country Village (behind the William Glen store, in the "Collection" area), Marconi and Fulton avenues; (916) 265-2110.

Oh, yeah – the crabs were scrumptious.

Old-time specials at Old I

Throughout November, Old Ironsides restaurant will celebrate 75 years of being in business. Look for special events (music, comedy, classic cocktails) and "dishes from decades past." That means lunch specials – steamed clams, short ribs, Swiss steak, French dip, corned beef and cabbage, and others.

The Sacramento landmark is at 1901 10th St. (10th and S streets); (916) 443-9751 and www.theoldironsides.com. Lunch hours are 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday.

Sandwich winner announced

In August, this column told how to enter the Make That Sandwich recipe contest sponsored by Mezzetta's, a Napa Valley-based purveyor of olives and peppers.

The company has announced its grand-prize winner, chosen out of 3,000 entries nationwide. Ninette Holbrook of Orlando, Fla., is $25,000 richer and planning on a Mezzetta-sponsored culinary trip and tour of the Napa Valley.

The recipe for her open-face wine-braised fig and caramelized onion sandwich is at www.mezzetta.com.

Call The Bee's Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128.