Lunch pal Roger and I were cruising along Watt Avenue in the North Highlands area and spotted a sign – Pit Stop Bar-B-Que – so we pulled in.

Turns out the place has been owned and operated by Hossein "Smokey Joe" Pejouhesh for the past 29 years.

How did Joe, who immigrated here from Iran in 1967, come to run a "Texas-style" 'cue joint?

"I used to have a restaurant before this one and decided to finally get out of the business, but that didn't work out," he said. "I bought this place in 1980, (even though) I'd never had a barbecue restaurant. Little by little, I started working on the sauce, then the barbecue. Before I knew it, I was a barbecue man."

Joe smokes brisket, pork shoulder, meaty pork ribs, chicken and hot links on an oak-fired JR-brand smoker. Unless you like your 'cue covered in sauce, ask for it on the side. We thought the hot version was better than the mild.

Side dishes include house-made macaroni salad, coleslaw and potato salad. We especially liked the from-scratch garlic mashed potatoes, buttery cornbread and perfectly cooked beans. Roger knocked back his sweet potato pie and took mine home with him.

Combinations, "mini-lunches" and specials abound. The restaurant will cater events.

The collection of old radios is captivating; walk around the two dining rooms and take a close look.

Pit Stop is at 3515 McClellan Drive (look for the street on the right if you're headed north on Watt); (916) 344-1771 or www.pitstopbarbq.com. Open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday.

Stolichniy an old favorite

While we were at it, we decided to briefly stop at some of our favorite places in the area.

North of the Pit Stop, on the west side of Watt, is the Russian-Ukrainian restaurant Stolichniy. We've dined there several times and like the vareniki and pelmeni (wonderful boiled dumplings with various fillings), goulash (meltingly tender braised beef), lamb with vegetables, flavor-filled cabbage roll, and crispy pork schnitzel. Not to forget the delicious mushroom and lamb-and-rice soups.

Stolichniy is at 5601 Watt Ave.; (916) 332-5989 or www. stolichniysacramento.com. Open 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 3-9 p.m. Sunday.

Touch of Britain

A few blocks along on the right side of Watt is Touch of Britain. Since 1985, the cozy restaurant-grocery store has served as an outpost for expatriates from the United Kingdom.

The best dish on the menu is the fried fish – big chunks of Icelandic cod encased in a crunchy, oil-free jacket of house-made batter. We sprinkle ours with salt and pepper, then splash on Sarson's brand malt vinegar ("Since 1794"). A pot of Earl Gray tea goes well with the meal.

Touch of Britain is at 5712 Watt Ave.; (916) 344-8472 or www. touchofbritain.com. Open 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, noon-3 p.m. Sunday.

Oh boy, the O Club

Lastly, we turned in to McClellan Business Park (formerly McClellan Air Force Base) and tracked down the O Club. The restaurant is inside the former military officers club and is the dining annex to Lions Gate, a public hotel whose renovated lodgings once quartered military officers.

Last time here, the rotating buffet featured very good "Southern comfort" items – fried chicken, mashed potatoes, chicken-fried steak, biscuits and gravy.

On this visit, we recalled that the buffet theme changes daily on weekdays and is a bargain at $10 (Mondays, Italian; Tuesdays, Mediterranean; Wednesdays, Texas barbecue; Thursdays, Asian; Fridays, Southern). Not in a buffet mood? Order from the menu.

The O Club is at 3410 Westover St.; (916) 643-6222, Ext. 6404, or www.lionsgatehotel.com. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.