Instead of the standard review of a single restaurant, today we're going to look at a variety of bargains on the dining scene. Some incredible, some good, some so-so.

Sure, folks love to read about the extravagant dinners at our best – and priciest – restaurants. But the feedback I get also says you're looking for ways to save money while still going out on the town and eating well.

So, in the past few weeks, while I visited restaurants I hoped to review, I also took several detours to sample the deals out there.

To some, my conclusions will reveal that my idea of a bargain may not be yours.

For instance, I'm not sure that lots of food at a low price is necessarily a bargain. I would prefer less food and higher quality at a good price – an $8 sandwich at Fog Mountain Café that is delicious and fresh and made with excellent ingredients is a better deal to than a $5 foot-long made with meat loaded with sodium and pressed into something resembling a turkeylike product.

Right now, we're probably witnessing plenty of bargains trying to get the attention of diners. The only place where I haven't seen an attempt at a screaming deal is the Kitchen Restaurant, owned by Randall Selland and family, where the fixed menu is $125 a head. I'm already on record saying that's a great value, given the quality of the experience.

But Selland's Market-Café, (5340 H St., east Sacramento) the excellent neighborhood eatery and wine shop does, indeed, have an unbelievable bargain: Dinner for two with a bottle of wine for $25. The first time we tried it, we had a bowl of clam chowder and shrimp Louie with a French white wine (a blend of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc) that was a pleasant surprise – simple and crisp and easy to drink.

What's more, Randall Selland himself is often at the cafe and likes to make the rounds, chatting with diners. Here's your chance to engage the founding chef and bon vivant of the Kitchen in all things culinary.

The Selland's special changes weekly. The next time, we stopped in and had the Greek lamb sandwich, which was also excellent. I happened to notice on Twitter that chef Randall bought the cucumbers for the tzatziki sauce at the farmers market. The meal came with a bottle of merlot that I found rather harsh from the tannins.

The next night, however, when I was relaxing at home, I poured the remainder of the wine into a couple of glasses and liked it much more, proving that this young wine needed time to relax, too.

The sandwich was a minor disappointment in that it was the only thing on the plate. A small salad, or a side of roasted potatoes or beets, would have filled out the plate and made it feel more like a dinner.

Verdict: With the wonderful casual atmosphere and neighborhood vibe, the high quality of the food and the emphasis placed on affordable wine Selland selects himself, you'll feel like a cat burglar stealing this meal. Highly recommended.

Jon Clemons, the 28-year-old chef at Capitol Garage (1500 K St., midtown Sacramento), the funky, friendly and bustling eatery and night spot, goes about value in a different way when it comes to his superb Bistro Steak Salad, which sells for $10.95.

It recently won a prize in the National Beef Cook-Off and it's easy to see why: nice portions and high quality.

But how can you get this much steak, which is clearly top-notch and tender, into a salad for 10 bucks? By having a chef who thinks creatively with an eye on the bottom line.

Clemons had previously put the salad on the Capitol Garage menu using New York strip and blue cheese dressing but felt something was missing. So when he learned from his supplier about a nontraditional and less-expensive cut – the bistro tenderloin – he jumped on it. It comes from the shoulder of the animal, known to butchers as the teres major muscle. It's very tender but needs plenty of prep work to denude, or remove the silver skin.

Also in the salad are several slabs of brie, which melt slightly next to the warm slices of beef. Add heirloom cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and a mix of greens with a honey and roasted garlic dressing.

Call The Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson (916) 321-1099.