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Tasting Room: Worth the country miles

Published: Wednesday, Jun. 24, 2009 - 12:00 am | Page 3D

We've spent a chunk of time lately in Clarksburg, not so much for wine tasting but to report on a fairly epic story. You'll be reading more about a pioneering local wine family soon, but meanwhile we're feeling pretty hungry here in the Sacramento Delta.

Trouble is, the eating options in Clarksburg (population about 1,500) don't extend much past the Dinky Diner. Sure, you can grab a burger or something else from the grill at this aptly named spot near the Clarksburg Marina. But we're craving something new.

We got wind from the locals about a place that serves a mighty tasty sandwich, with the option of free wine tasting on Saturdays. That would be Husick's Country Store, just a few miles south of the Freeport Bridge on Riverview Drive.

The building dates back to the late 1800s and was known in a previous life as Husick's Hardware. For the past year, Husick's Country Store has served sandwiches, salads and other picnic fare for locals and wine tourists alike.

Step inside and you'll find an ode to living the good life around Clarksburg. The shelves are lined with wines produced around Clarksburg and elsewhere in the Sacramento River Delta: Scribner Bend, Bogle, Six Hands, Carvalho Family Wines, Dancing Coyote and more. Husick's deli features sandwiches with such area themes as "Clarksburg Reuben," "Wine Maker" and "Merritt Island" (home to Bogle Vineyards). Think of it all as a literal taste of Clarksburg.

So it'll be a "Landscaper" – salami, cheddar cheese, pepperoncinis and mixed greens on sourdough bread – with a bag of sour cream-and-onion chips, please.

Wines are available by the glass, including the Heringer Estates 2006 Sauvignon Blanc and Bogle 2006 Merlot. But hey, a busy day of writing calls, so wine isn't the best idea today.

The next-best drinking option is a Vignette Wine Country Soda stocked at Husick's. These fizzy, non- alcoholic numbers are made from wine grapes and are pretty refreshing. We opt for the pinot noir soda and look around while waiting for that "Landscaper."

The room has a charming, old-time feel with its antique furnishings and well-worn hardwood floor. There's also a blast from the building's hardware store past. One section of the floor still features stenciled numbers that were used to gauge lengths when cutting various long materials.

A sense of community has seeped into this space. Pear wood chips, which are bagged by students from nearby Delta High School, are for sale and ready to be used in your next barbecue pit. Books written by Father Dan Madigan, the popular pastor at St. Joseph's Church just down the road, are also available for purchase.

Many of the patrons here seem to know each other, talking about high school graduations and other local matters. The vibe on this Friday afternoon sure feels leisurely, like the flow of the Sacramento River that's a stone's throw away.

In fact, the feeling's so laid-back that the sandwich maker forgets to make our order. Oops! But once that's figured out, we're served promptly.

The "Landscaper" sandwich is certainly worth the wait. Seriously, this is a darn good salami sandwich, complemented with fresh greens and a nice tanginess from the pepperoncinis and sourdough bread. The bread, sourced from Grateful Bread Bakery in Sacramento, is especially soft but still holds the salami and other ingredients together solidly.

"Yum" is the best way to sum this all up.

Next time maybe we'll try the Merritt Island, a panini with roast beef, caramelized onions and barbecue sauce. There's also an option to purchase to-go lunch boxes for $16.99, custom made for picnicking around the area.

But now it's time to get back to work, with a full belly and a bottle of Six Hands Winery Delta Red to savor when deadlines are done.


Call Bee food and wine writer Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.


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