I have a sago palm that is approximately 35 years old. It has been repotted several times and is quite large and healthy. About two months ago, for no apparent reason, new plants began to appear around the outside. They seem to be coming from the roots of the original plant. It's absolutely amazing. I'm not quite sure whether I should be doing something with them. Should I try to cut them off? Will the new plants continue to grow like this? Is this a good or bad thing?

– Carol, Citrus Heights

Your sago palm (Cycas) is producing new plants, often referred to as offsets or pups, according to UC master gardener Bill Pierce. If allowed to grow in place, they will create a small forest effect. The best time to remove the pups is in the spring just before warm weather begins. The pups will have few roots or none at all, so most of the fronds should be removed to reduce water loss.

Before planting, let the pups air-dry in the shade for a few days so the moist wound and/or cut roots can heal or form a callus. Then plant them in small containers filled with a fast-draining medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the plants in filtered light or under shade cloth until well rooted. This process may take several weeks or even months. Once they are rooted, you can plant them in the landscape or continue growing them in pots.

For additional information on the care of sago palms, please send a self-addressed, stamped, 44-cent business size envelope to Publication 8039, UC Cooperative Extension, 4145 Branch Center Road, Sacramento, CA 95827.

We have Italian cypress trees that produced seed cones, and I would like to be able to produce other trees from them to expand the row. I cannot find any information on opening the cones or planting the seeds.

– Josie, Arbuckle

Cypress (Cupressus) pods will open when the seeds are ripe, according to UC master gardener Bill Pierce. The seeds contain an inhibitor that prevents germination. This can be overcome by storing them for four months in a refrigerator where the temperature remains at 35 to 40 degrees. Place the seeds in damp peat moss or even a wet paper towel, and seal them in a plastic bag or other airtight container for storage.

After the chilling period, sow the seeds in a mixture of damp peat moss and perlite. The seeds can be left outdoors in a sheltered position or placed in a house in a sunny window. After the sprouted seeds have developed true leaves, transfer them to individual pots filled with potting soil.

Another way to propagate these trees is by cuttings made in the winter. Cut pieces 4 to 6 inches long, strip the foliage from the bottom 2 inches, and treat each of them with a rooting hormone, available at most nurseries. A good rooting medium is the same peat moss and perlite mixture. Keep the rooting medium moist, but not soggy wet, at all times. Place your containers of cuttings in a sheltered spot outside or in a sunny window in the house. To test for rooting, gently pull on the cuttings. If there is resistance, roots have formed. Transfer your rooted cuttings to containers filled with potting soil. Water the cuttings well and put them in a shady location. After a couple of weeks, gradually move them into full sun. Start out by putting them in the sun for one hour, and increase this exposure by an hour every other day.

We bought a nectarine tree several weeks ago. The top leaves have rust-like spots. What's the problem?

– Anna, Sacramento

Your tree appears to have been infected with nectarine rust (Transchelia discolor), according to UC master gardener Bill Pierce. This disease develops during wet weather in the spring after the flower petals have fallen. The spores that cause this problem will remain on the twigs of the tree from year to year, and the disease will break out each spring.

To stop this cycle, spray the tree with a fungicide such as fixed copper, in the spring after the flower petals have fallen. Be sure to read and follow directions carefully. Because damp conditions favor rust development, aim sprinklers to avoid wetting the foliage. Drip irrigation is better because it doesn't increase the humidity in the orchard as much.

For more information on nectarine rust: www.ipm.ucdavis.edu.

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