CALISTOGA – On a recent Sunday evening at Hydro Grill & Bar, co-owner Alex Dierkhising stood at the bar with a glass of wine, chatting easily about his place.

Hydro Grill is a deft mix of cozy, airy, sorta wine country, and sorta not. It's got tall brick walls, loads of arched windows, lofty exposed beams and quirky art – like the mermaid, barely noticed, swimming through the air, high in one corner.

The comfort of the place comes from more than the look. Hydro's crowd is often local and always friendly. On this recent Sunday night, with six members of the jazzy Swing 7 band playing away and taking up one large corner, the place was a festival.

Dierkhising and partner Gayle Keller have been running this and All Seasons Bistro across the street for more than 25 years. He is, like lots of people around here, easygoing, relaxed with his world, and happy – totally happy – to be living in this town at the narrow north end of Napa Valley.

"The only real bad complaint I've gotten was from someone on Yelp," he said over the swing music. Around him, some people listened to the band, others talked. "She said this place had nothing in it but a bunch of depressed local drunks."

"They may drink, and they may be local," Dierkhising said, "but they sure aren't depressed."

As he said that, he pointed to a group at the opposite side of the bar. Ron Vuylsteke, a winemaker at Tudal Family Vineyards and a regular, saw him point and gave a big happy wave.

There are loads of reasons not to be depressed in Calistoga, even if you're just visiting, and even if you're not in Hydro Grill. The stores, restaurants and streets are filled with not-depressed people.

Calistoga is old Napa and still a small town. In its way, it's also a hidden part of the region. Despite the big-time success of Napa, Calistoga still feels a lot like the valley did before the wine world exploded here.

It's the least polished piece of Napa Valley, and because it's on the northern end, the least visited (though in high summer and during the harvest, Calistoga's packed like the rest of Napa).

Clearly, though, this is big-deal wine country, and it's an integral piece of the valley that's become the epicenter for American wine. Vineyards are everywhere, up hillsides, along the highway, sometimes planted in little lots between houses. There's great food, wine bars and expensive resorts if you want them. But there's also something more, something comfortable and engaging and earnest about Calistoga.

Here, many of the wineries are smaller and family-owned. There's a high incidence of dogs in and around the tasting rooms – Vincent Arroyo Winery, for instance, has Labrador retrievers JJ and Bodega, who climb stacks of barrels to fetch tennis balls – and almost no incidence of snootiness. (For more on the wineries, see the If You Go box on Page 13).

And the restaurant scene, which ranks in quality with the rest of the valley, has a more casual feel, plus there are plenty of tiny eateries and bars with decidedly smaller-town sensibilities.

And that's the difference. Calistoga is a genuine small town, too, with lots of people like Dierkhising or Mark Wilkinson, who've lived here for decades or were born and raised here.

"I think Calistoga has more soul, so to speak, than some of the other towns in the valley," Wilkinson said. (He, too, by the way, is one of the not-depressed locals often hanging around Hydro Grill.) "The other towns are very nice towns, but some feel 'over-quainted.'

"In Calistoga, there are real hardware stores and real markets and the person in the restaurant or bar or shop owns the restaurant or bar or shop, and they probably have for years."

Wilkinson falls in the born-and-raised category. His father, John "Doc" Wilkinson, was a young chiropractor who came to Calistoga in 1946 with his wife, Edy. In 1952, he founded Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs Resort, now one of the iconic establishments in Calistoga for both the spa and the lodging. Today it's run by Mark and his sister, Carolynne, and the place manages – like so many places here – to feel both modern and rooted.

"When I was a kid, like every kid, I didn't pay much attention to this place. There are the hills, blah, blah, blah," Mark said. "Now that I'm past the midcentury mark (he's 52), there really isn't a day I don't walk or drive down the street and think, 'This is an amazing place to live.' "

And to visit. This is the top of the valley where the mountains come down to both ends of Lincoln Avenue, the main street. You can sense them around you, feel their weight. It makes the town snug, like a high Sierra outpost. Many of the two-story buildings on Lincoln have wood awnings that add to the oddly mountainous mood.

That feeds a romantic and adventurous zeitgeist. The town is outdoor-oriented – I mean more than picnicking at the wineries. It's a good place to rent bikes, there's a friendly nine-hole golf course on the north end of town, there's a petrified forest up the road, and Bothe-Napa Valley State Park nearby has camp sites, a summer pool and hiking trails.

The whole thermal waters thing feeds a thriving spa and mud-bath industry, but my favorite scalding water attraction is the Old Faithful Geyser of California on Tubbs Lane. It's one of just three on the planet with the official title of Old and Faithful. The others are in New Zealand and, of course, Yellowstone.

Yellowstone is the biggie. It gets the pub. This one is, uh, less grand. It's in the middle of a compound that, a century ago, was a private home someone built next to a geyser. It's surrounded by trees and picnic tables and you can get up close when it blows.

It blows every 40 minutes – on an annual average – but the size and frequency of the spout depends on how soaked the ground is. In the winter or after a rain, the geyser pops every 10 to 20 minutes, goes 40 feet high and lasts a minute or so. In the dry times of summer, the wait may be an hour, but when she blows, it's 75 feet and four to eight minutes. The wait is fine, though, because it's a nice place to bring a picnic.

Or, you can watch the geyser from the patio or the bocce ball court of Summers Winery, a couple of hundred yards down Tubbs Lane. That's sort of the tone throughout Calistoga: Dispense with the glitz, just have fun.

One of my favorite places to stay – and I'm a little reluctant to be giving up the secret – fits that mold. It's Washington Street Lodging, a set of neat little cottages a couple of blocks off the main drag.

It's run by Joan and Jim Caputi, with help from Sophie, a sweet basset hound, and Maggie May, the curious cat. The Caputis have owned the place since 1984 – "We both think we should be retired by now," Joan said – "and haven't raised rates in six years."

"We asked our guests," Joan said, "would your rather have a muffin or a reasonable place to stay?"

There's the tone again, friendly, straight up, no airs. And if you seriously want a place with no airs, there's Susie's Bar. It's categorically not your wine country poster bar. It's another hangout for locals, a classic dive bar in all the best ways, and, as Wilkinson explained, surely not the first place to go in the evening.

"It's a good idea to have a drink before you go to Susie's," he said. "Usually, it's the last stop of the night."

I need to tell my Susie's story, and it came when Wilkinson and some other locals were showing me and my wife around. It may have been my single cool moment in a bar, ever, but it was a good one.

When you enter Susie's, you go down a long and, frankly, shabby hall that opens to a wide, tall room with tables and a space that could be a dance floor. A long bar runs the length of the wall on the right. Around the room there are games like an old-school pinball machine. Near the close end of the bar is a jukebox and one of those country-fair-style glass booths filled with stuffed animals. You're supposed to pull them out with a claw.

Our little group looked at the game. A friendly guy at the bar who'd clearly been there a while said no one ever gets anything out but little stuff.

"Win me the otter," said my wife, Deborah. She was being ironic. Deborah knows me. Not much chance I'd win anything anywhere, let alone from a borderline-rigged game.

But there was that adorable gray and white otter staring out from the pile. We all pitched in money, and against common sense, I took the controls. They were barely responsive, the claw was wimpy, its range was minimal and it moved like a staggering drunk.

I flailed away for a while. Wilkinson put another dollar in. Then, against most laws of physics, the claw got fastened around the otter. The herky-jerky crane pulled him above the pile.

Someone in the bar yelled, I swear to you, "He's got the otter." The place came alive. People started cheering and shouting. They said all the obvious things people say, like "hold on" and "don't drop him."

There's a time limit on this game, and then everything stops. So I had to get the otter across the cage to the exit with the gummy controls and the feeble claw. People started chanting, "Otter. Otter. Otter."

It was getting closer to the exit hole. Closer. Closer. The bar was a cascade of noise. The time ran out just as I hit the drop button. The otter disappeared somewhere below the glass.

Again, I swear it, the bar went silent. No shouting. No noise. Deborah reached into the prize drawer of the machine to see what happened. The place was still. She came out with the otter and held it over her head. "Got it."

Pandemonium. The bar went nuts. My group was hugging. Guys were high-fiving. A group of young-20s women were shrieking and jumping. Some older regulars at the bar were toasting their beers. That guy at the end of the bar near me was almost weeping.

"That was," he said, nearly hugging me, "the best thing I've ever seen in here."

I'm pretty certain it wasn't. It was the moment, and, surely, the beer talking. Still that's the way they roll here.

Not every place or every night is like that. Plenty of times, especially on crowded weekends, Calistoga is another busy wine country spot with a few too many people stuffed in.

But underneath that, there's always the streak of a friendly small town that includes an uncynical outlook and an enthusiasm for living life and for letting people in. Plus if you're very lucky, maybe you'll win an otter.

IF YOU GO

There's much to see and do in the Calistoga area. This menu of possibilities will get you started:

WINERIES

Here are some of my favorite wineries in the area:

August Briggs Winery

One of the valley's newer wineries, it's family-owned, and tasting is free. Open Thursday-Sunday 10:30 a.m.- 4:30 p.m. 333 Silverado Trail. (707) 942-4912, www.augustbriggswines.com

Bennett Lane Winery

It's a pretty, generally uncrowded spot. Open daily 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. 3340 Highway 128. (707) 942-6684 or (877) 629-6272, www.bennettlane.com

Calistoga Cellars

It just opened a comfortable tasting room on Calistoga's main drag. Open Thursday and Friday noon-5 p.m. Weekends 12 p.m.-6 p.m. 1371 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-7422, www.calistogacellars.com

Silver Rose Cellars

Part of the Silver Rose Resort, the deck is a nice spot for a picnic. Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 400 Silverado Trail.

(707) 942-9581 or (800) 995-9381, www.silverrose.com

Summers Winery

Another family-owned winery with a patio, bocce ball court and a view of the geyser. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. 1171 Tubbs Lane. (707) 942-5508 or (866) 623-1289, www.summerswinery.com

Vincent Arroyo Winery

Longtime area farmer and winery owner, plus they have adorable dogs that climb the wine barrels. Tasting by appointment. 2362 Greenwood Ave. (707) 942-6995 or (800) 690-1113, www.vincentarroyowinery.com

Zahtila Vineyards

One of the smallest and most personal wineries in the valley, it's right at the west end of town. Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 2250 Lake County Highway. (707) 942-9251, www.zahtilavineyards.com

Lava Vine Winery

A just-opened winery run by some old pro winemakers. Its cozy tasting room is walking distance from town. Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 905 Silverado Trail. (707) 942-9500, www.lavavine.com

EATING AND DRINKING

All Seasons Bistro

An eclectic and appealing wine bar, plus a bistro with stellar food. Closed Mondays. 1400 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-9111, www.allseasonsnapavalley.net

Brannan's Grill

One of the mainstays of Napa Valley dining, with jazz on weekend nights. 1378 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-2233, www.brannansgrill.com

Calistoga Inn

It's a restaurant, a microbrewery, a bar, and it's got the best patio seating in town. 1250 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-4101, www.calistogainn.com

Cafe Sarafornia

A cheery diner with loads of character. Great breakfast. 1413 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942.0555, www.cafesarafornia.com

Hydro Grill and Bar

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, music on the weekends and a welcoming air. Food's good, too. 1403 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-9777

Jole

All the food is served in smaller bites, and more than 50 wines are offered by the glass. 1457 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-5938, www.jolerestaurant.com

Susie's Bar

It's the friendly dive bar for locals and visitors. 1365 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-6710, www.susiesbar.com

LODGING

There are loads of charming B&Bs nearby. Go to www.calistogavisitors.com/ lodging or call the Calistoga Chamber of Commerce at (707) 942-6333. But here are a few places that are unusual, inexpensive or especially charming.

Cottage Grove Inn

This is not an inexpensive place. But if I had the money, this is where I'd spend it. 1711 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942 8400 or (800) 799-2284, www.cottagegrove.com

Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs Resort.

It's old-school yet still upscale, and right on the main street. Plus you're staying at a spa. 1507 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-4102, www.drwilkinson.com

Golden Haven Hot Springs Spa & Resort

It's nice but a bit far from downtown, which keeps the price down. And, again, you're staying at a spa. 1713 Lake St. (707) 942-8000, www.goldenhaven.com

Stevenson Manor Inn

A Best Western that's a cut above, and the service is very friendly. Gets booked quickly in busy times. 1830 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-1112, www.stevensonmanor.com

Washington Street Lodging

Way underpriced and adorable. 1605 Washington St. (707) 942-6968, www. washingtonstreetlodging.com AND HERE ARE THE QUIRKY SPOTS:

Calistoga Inn

It's the place with the restaurant, bar and brewery. That's the downside: noise. Also, it's "European style" shared bathrooms. The upside is convenience and price. Some rooms online start at $49. 1250 Lincoln Ave. (707) 942-4101, www.calistogainn.com

Bothe-Napa Valley State Park

Campsites are on a wooded mountainside. The pool opens for the summer on Monday. There are no hookups, but it's $18 for a campsite. 3803 St. Helena Highway North. (707) 942-4575

Napa County Fair Grounds RV park.

It's pure RV park. There's also a tent area. It's $30 a night for the slots with water and power, $20 to camp. Entrance is on Oak Street near the corner of Grant Street. 1435 Oak St. (707) 942-5221, www.napacountyfairgrounds.com/rvpark.htm

OTHER FUN STUFF:

Mount Saint Helena Golf Course

Pretty nine-hole, par 36, 2,759-yard, public course on the Napa County Fair Grounds. Open daily 7 a.m. till dusk. Weekdays cost $18. Weekends are $24. Entrance is on Grant Street, just north of Oak Street. (707) 942-9966. www.napa countyfairgrounds.com/golf.htm

Old Faithful Geyser of California

One of three Old Faithfuls in the world. Plus there are picnic grounds and animals to pet. Open daily 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. $8 general, $3 for kids 6-12. 1299 Tubbs Lane, (707) 942-6463, www.oldfaithfulgeyser.com

Petrified Forest

Some parts are a bit underwhelming, but there's real history here and a nice walk in the woods. Open daily 9 a.m.-7 p.m. $7 general, juniors are $6, kids 6-11 are $3.

4100 Petrified Forest Road. (707) 942-6667, www.petrifiedforest.org

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Call The Bee's Rick Kushman, (916) 321-1187. Listen to him Thursdays at 8:40 a.m. on NewsTalk 1530 (KFBK) and 8:50 a.m. on Armstrong & Getty, Talk 650 KSTE.

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