Welcome to "First Impressions," an occasional look at new restaurants in the region, giving you an idea of what to expect and helping you determine if you might want to pay a visit.

Up first are three new Sacramento restaurants that call themselves bistros. A bistro is supposed to be a small, casual, European-style eatery with a more compact menu than a full-fledged restaurant's.

In America, it's probably best not to take the label too literally. The Sacramento area already has a strong bistro category, with places like Tuli, Ravenous, Formoli's and Boulevard Bistro winning raves from loyal patrons.

Where will these new places fit in? One seems like a sure hit. Another looks like a good bet. The third is still getting off the ground.

The Press Bistro

This bistro opened a couple of weeks ago, and the first thing this visitor noticed was the beauty of the space – and that it's much larger than one might imagine from the outside.

The highly anticipated restaurant is the creation of David English, formerly the executive chef at Ella Dining Room & Bar on K Street. English left Ella last year and traveled to Europe to gather ideas and inspiration before embarking on the next chapter in his life.

If the Press Bistro is that chapter, English should do very well. Beyond the sophisticated feel – a little bit elegant, a little bit urban warehouse/industrial – the menu is appealing, and the precision of the cooking is already impressive.

We took advantage of the three tapas for $10 and were impressed with the intense flavors of the fried meatballs with garlic. The heirloom tomatoes with mozzarella were also fresh and expressive of the ingredients.

But my favorite little treat was the potato croquettes – so simple, so impossibly light, they were almost like eating a breaded, fried poof of cloud. Don't forget to inhale deeply and enjoy the aroma before biting. If you nibble ever so slowly, you might convince yourself that this dish will never end.

Among the larger entrees, we were impressed with the cooking precision and delicious flavor of the hanger steak, the creamy richness of the potato gnocchi in a pesto cream sauce and the depth of flavor and velvety texture found in the risotto of summer zucchini, corn and cherry tomatoes.

The opening wine list focuses on France, Spain and Italy, and we hear that the $5-a-glass house red is already a hit. We were happy to see the red wines served at the proper temperature.

So far, the Press is open only for dinner. As the staff settles in, we're told this bistro is planning to open for lunch and Sunday brunch.

Kupros Bistro

• 1217 21st St., Sacramento

Kupros, owned by Stephen and Sharon Tokuhama, is another attractive new restaurant in an old Craftsman house that has been thoroughly renovated. The folks behind Kupros call it a "gastropub" – another word with varying meanings.

The word certainly fits, as Kupros has a great bar and an appealing approach to the food, well beyond typical bar fare. Add it up: gastropub.

The first thing you notice when you walk in is the large rectangular bar with a period stained-glass ceiling. The bar was built from wood pulled from the house during the large-scale renovation. The stained glass was handmade by a midtown craftsman.

It's easy to see how this setting can emerge as a meeting spot for regulars and a great place to meet new friends.

There is also outdoor dining on two levels, including a spacious second-floor balcony overlooking … OK, it overlooks a parking lot, but it's still pretty cool.

Kupros has a full liquor license and features a nice selection of craft beers from the United States, Belgium and Germany. During my visit on a bustling Second Saturday, the place was on its second night in business. I didn't see a wine list, but that should take shape in the days ahead.

Beyond the good looks of the 100-year-old house, the best thing about Kupros is the food, thanks to executive chef John Gurnee, most recently of Mason's before it turned into Cafeteria 15L, which is not a cafeteria, a bistro or a gastropub.

The opening menu was compact, but it should grow in the weeks ahead as Kupros gets up to speed. Gurnee is working on a signature burger and will soon be showcasing oysters.

We loved the flavor of the grilled bread smeared with herbed ricotta and topped with a marmalade made with deliciously blistered cherry tomatoes and seasoned with pimentón.

We did a double take when we saw poutine on the menu. Few in Sacramento could possibly know what that is – a uniquely French-Canadian dish of French fries, cheese curds and, yes, gooey gravy.

Gurnee does a wonderful version of poutine – wonderful because it is nothing like the disgustingly delicious poutine I grew up with in Ottawa. His poutine features French fries with a light but tasty oxtail gravy, a light hand with the cheese curds and a generous serving of what appeared to be pulled pork but was actually intensely flavored oxtail ragu.

You think pub food takes shortcuts? The oxtails are marinated in red wine, then braised for four hours as the meat develops more and more flavor.

This dish alone shows Gurnee's approach: Delicious food can also be fun, and don't expect the same old bar fare on any of his menus.

Judging by the crowds on the first few nights, people are embracing what this place is all about. Two guys at the table next to us were raving about the Hamachi crudo. With Gurnee in the kitchen, and with friendly servers staying on top of things, Kupros looks like a distinctive addition to our flourishing dining scene.

Bistro Michel

"Too soon to tell" is how I would sum up Bistro Michel, run by two friends in their 30s, Alan Chan and Richard Macias. Chan is also co-owner of Simon's Bar & Café, an institution on nearby 16th Street.

The new place is the clear underdog of the three bistros we visited, and it does not yet have the feel of a place fully up to speed.

Our server strongly suggested the lamb sliders, so we obliged. How can you mess up a lamb slider? The bun – too thick and clunky and stale. Better bread will give us a chance to taste the lamb.

The beet salad was another item on the menu that didn't live up to the billing. There are some incredible beet salads around town. This one was ordinary. The pork chop was nicely done and attractively presented, though it suffered from overcooking on this occasion.

Bistro Michel is on a busy block at lunchtime. It becomes a rather sleepy block after 6 p.m., when state workers head home.

This place, in a spot once occupied by Gaylord's Indian restaurant, could be a cozy little evening hideaway if and when the menu develops a personality and enough folks discover it.

There is sidewalk dining as well as comfortable seating in the dining room. And yes, it does have some of that French charm the owners are trying to replicate.

From what we hear, Bistro Michel is going to break out with a bigger and bolder menu in the days ahead. It is also expected to have excellent desserts with a new pastry chef coming on board any day now. These treats will be featured in the bistro's late-night dessert bar.

Still, Bistro Michel could help its cause by hammering out the basics: posting its hours, phone number and menu somewhere on the Internet. We ended up having to call Simon's to find out when Bistro Michel was open.

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Call The Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099.

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