The most intriguing aspect of reviewing restaurants is being able to point you toward unsung or underappreciated places that deserve your attention.

With that in mind, we did something we normally wouldn't: We pulled off the freeway in Woodland and headed up Main Street with eyes peeled.

Its historic downtown still intact, Woodland still has the allure that many larger cities, Sacramento included, are trying to recapture.

Just 20 miles north of Sacramento, we found more than we expected at Tazzina Bistro: a sophisticated menu, an appealing dining room, service that can range from so-so to very good and, best of all, a bar that serves a superior selection of adult beverages.

Yes, there are at least two ways to alter the mind, and Tazzina Bistro occasionally attempts both, for better or worse. Let's start with the wrong way – a pre-packaged music loop from hell during lunch: "Green Tambourine," "Smile a Little Smile for Me" and, if there is the musical equivalent of standing on a ledge and wondering what it all really means, "Over and Over Again" by the Dave Clark Five.

Then there's the right way, and it's really right at Tazzina. The mixed drinks are nothing short of sensational – the variety, the creative flourishes, the range of ingredients. There are also warm, soothing nightcaps just in time for the cold, wet weather.

After dinner, we tried a variety of drinks, including chocolate and coffee-based ones like the Black Forest (Kahlua, cherry vodka, espresso, hot chocolate and whipped cream) and the Snuggler (peppermint schnapps and hot chocolate) that gave us courage to head out into the fierce night weather (the mercury had dipped below 60 degrees).

If you fancy yourself a wordsmith or someone who likes cats with six toes, try the Hemingway daiquiri. Want to change the world? Start with a Muckraker (Jameson Irish whiskey and Baileys Irish Cream).

I should have known that the woman who owns such a bistro would stock 24 varieties of gin and, with four cats at home, have three rescues named Gin, Tonic and Fizz. If she gets a dog, I suggest "Ramos" for the Ramos gin fizz I had with brunch one Sunday (it was 5 o'clock somewhere); it was a beautiful thing – frothy white and well shaken, with an inspiring balance of flavors. It is made with Bombay Sapphire, Cointreau, orange flower water, cream, egg white and housemade sweet and sour, and shaken, according to our server, "about a hundred times."

I can't confirm what Cary Grant would have sipped at brunch, but I imagine it would have been a beverage like this – equal parts manly and prissy.

Don't get me wrong. You don't have to be a lush to love Tazzina Bistro. But you'll like the place just that much more if you favor a drink with an extra dose of intelligence and style.

Tazzina Bistro is pretty much an expression of how executive chef and owner Rebecca Reichardt sees the world. Born in Dixon, she moved to Woodland when she was 13. While in high school, she worked at the famed Murder Burger in Davis (now called Redrum Burger because a few folks took the whole murder thing seriously) and was drawn into the rush and madness of the restaurant business, where time can stand still one hour and absolutely fly the next. Some flee that kind of environment. Others embrace it.

Reichardt knew almost right away it was for her. She took culinary classes at American River College and went on to cook at Paragary's in Fair Oaks and then at multiple locations of Zinfandel Grille. In 2004, at the former site of the Cranston's Hardware store once frequented by her father, she opened Tazzina Bistro.

These days, with her mother managing the front of the house and with a full liquor license acquired in 2007, Reichardt's appealing little bistro is poised to lure folks from beyond Woodland's city limits. Yes, if you're looking for a change of scenery and a stimulating dining experience, you'll do well to seek it out.

And if you really want to enjoy this place, bring along a pal with a driver's license who has nothing better to do than sit and watch you imbibe. For such a loyal soul, Tazzina has a non- alcoholic drink called The Bright Rose, which is not something Cary Grant would have ordered.

Yes, Tazzina has food. It's open for lunch and dinner as well as brunch on weekends. We tried all three of the eclectic menus and, with only minor exceptions, were impressed with the cooking.

At lunch, the poached salmon and mixed greens salad ($12.95) was just right when we wanted something light and healthy. But the real discovery that day was the grilled chicken sandwich ($10.95) – a tender chicken breast and caramelized onions contrasting with the crackle of toasted focaccia.

At dinner one weeknight, four of us arrived without reservations and made selections throughout the menu, enjoying our entrees and the well-prepared desserts. On "Wine Wednesdays," the bistro offers 50 percent off most bottles of wine with dinner. The wine selection focuses on California and Italian varieties, with a few other regions dotting the list. We dug into a pleasant-tasting wild mushroom pate ($9.50) but were distracted by stale grilled bread supplied for scooping it up. The shrimp wrapped in pancetta had great flavor and was a nice appetizer for sharing.

Our vegetarian friend had herbed ricotta gnocchi in brown butter with Brussels sprouts ($16.95). It's a nice variation on the typical potato gnocchi, though the texture could have been a tad lighter. We also had a classic French bistro dish, coq au vin ($19.95) – braised chicken thighs in the red wine sauce. There was plenty of flavor and the chicken was tender, but the sauce deserved more attention to get it thicker and more glossy. Still, it was a delicious dish.

Tazzina cooked the rib eye steak ($26.50) perfectly, topping it with a dollop of garlic butter and serving it with gratin potatoes and bacon-braised endive.

The night's only disappointment was the mac 'n' cheese, with bacon, three kinds of cheese, béchamel, Dijon mustard and bread crumbs. Though you're not going to go too far afield with the above ingredients, the sauce was too soupy and needed to be thickened. For $17.95, we would expect this dish, a stand-alone entrée, to be superb.

In the midst of a comfort-food renaissance, mac 'n' cheese has become a surprisingly high-profile dish at many restaurants. During a recent culinary jaunt to New York, we stopped at a place in the East Village that served nothing but mac 'n' cheese in miniature cast-iron pans. They have it down to a science, and, yes, it was less expensive than Tazzina's.

At Sunday brunch, Tazzina did a brisk business, and our server, Katie, made the experience all the better with a combination of professionalism and humorous asides. When she brought out the plate of baked eggs rancheros and saw our eyes widen at the huge portion, she whispered, "Do your best." We enjoyed the spicy sauce with the eggs and did well to finish half of it.

Because it was a late brunch, we also tried the braised beef lasagna and appreciated the intense flavor of the tender, practically shredded meat. It didn't make us forget about Biba Caggiano's legendary lasagna Bolognese, but it was a admirable version.

The brunch is good deal – $16 for three courses, $13 for two courses – and an easy way to get to know this restaurant.

Our several visits to Tazzina left us eager to return for more – happy with the cooking and charmed by the nicely reimagined old storefront. But more than that, we look forward to buying another round at the bar, which offers up just the right mix of intelligence, style and passion.

TAZZINA BISTRO

614 Main St., Woodland

(530) 661-1700

www.tazzinabistro.com

Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 5-9 p.m. Monday-Friday; brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 5-9 p.m. Saturday; brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 4-9 p.m. Sunday

Full bar? Yes.

Vegetarian-friendly? Yes.

Takeout? Yes.

Overall: 3 stars (good)

Solid bistro cooking with an appealing variety in its menu, Tazzina will please you with its food and, if you're so inclined, entertain you with its excellent drinks from the bar.

Food: 3 stars (good)

Nice sandwiches, salads and soups for lunch, eclectic entrees at dinner and several inspired desserts. Most of the cooking is solid and sophisticated, with only a couple of missteps.

Service: 2 1/2 stars (pretty good)

Three visits, three different experiences. Once, our server entertained us with her charisma and professionalism. Another time, we could have used paddles to jolt some life into our order-taker. And at lunch, the check came before we were asked if we wanted dessert – we did – and then we had to go hunting for it many minutes after we were finished.

Ambience: 3 stars (good)

The bistro is a renovated hardware store with interior walls of weathered red brick. It's equal parts rustic and elegant. The only shortcomings were the generic framed prints hanging from the walls. Surely there are local artists who have something better to offer. The music? Dreadful during our lunch visit, much nicer at dinner.

Value: 3 stars (good)

Quality ingredients, professional cooking, sophisticated thinking. Many lunch items under $10. Dinner entrees range from $15.95 to $26.50.

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Call The Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099.

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