An ancient vegetable is finding legions of new fans as cooks rediscover the joy of peas.

Joy? Peas? Don't be hasty and dismiss the pairing. Yes, most of us grew up with frozen, canned or dried split peas. Shelling peas by hand, it seemed, was just too much work.

But the flavor of fresh peas rewards those who take on that time-consuming chore. And some peas need no shelling – they're eaten pod and all.

An early spring staple for millennia, peas are at their best – and sweetest – just plucked from the vine. Ask any gardener who grows peas; they often get munched before they reach the kitchen. The reason: Peas' sugar content is highest the moment they're picked. Once off the vine, that sugar rapidly converts to starch.

The best time to enjoy fresh peas is now, as a new crop is hitting stores, farmers markets and backyard gardens. Peas also complement other spring vegetables such as asparagus, spinach and, of course, carrots.

Humanity's connection to peas is practically in our DNA. Archeologists have traced their consumption almost 8,000 years to Syria, Turkey and Jordan, where peas grew wild. Ancient Egyptians ate peas as early as 4800 B.C. Peas also have thousands of years of culinary history in India, Pakistan and southern parts of Russia.

Meanwhile, edible pod peas – snow peas – became a staple throughout Asia.

By the Middle Ages, dried peas were a major source of protein for most of Europe. It wasn't until the 17th and 18th centuries that the Italians, French and English fell in love with immature, fresh green peas.

Known as piselli novelli and with their seeds imported from Genoa, these early spring peas became the rage of the court of France's Louis XIV. Ladies smuggled them up to their bedrooms and ate raw peas like candy. The French called it "pea madness."

The English called it inspiration, developing new varieties – known as English or garden peas – meant to be eaten as fresh as possible. The colonists brought them to America. According to his garden records, Thomas Jefferson grew at least 30 different cultivars of peas.

All these peas contribute to a global menu of possibilities. Peas mixed with mint taste very French – or Turkish, depending on the other ingredients. A pea salad with cheese and mayonnaise makes for a proper British picnic. In Spain, peas combine with ham for classic tapas. Pea soup variations are common from Sweden to Iran. (And fresh pea soup seems a world away from its split pea cousins.)

In his "The Best Recipes in the World" (Clarkson Potter, $32.50, 768 pages), the New York Times' Mark Bittman uses peas as part of the batter in the Japanese savory pancakes called okonomiyaki, Middle Eastern rice pilaf, Chinese stir-fry (with shrimp and ginger), Italian soups and pastas (with ham and baby artichokes), filling for Indian samosas and Vietnamese stir-fry with nam pla.

Obviously, peas get around. But not always all the way to the kitchen.

Spring green peas fall into three groups.

• Shelled or English peas: These are plucked from their pods, which tend to be tough and fibrous. Look for firm peas of uniform size and color, but not too big. Larger peas tend to be older and tougher. The pods should be crisp and shiny. One pound of peas in their pods yields 1 to 1 1/4 cups of shelled peas.

• Snow or Asian peas: Not as sweet as their seedy counterparts, these have flat pods with tiny, immature peas. They're made to eat whole or sliced diagonally in half. Look for firm, crisp pods – not limp.

• Sugar snap peas: They're also known as mange-tout ("eat all"). A recent hybrid, these peas blend the best of both snow and English varieties. The pods are edible, and the peas inside are nice, round and sweet. Look for firm, crisp, vivid-green pods that "snap." These are best when lightly steamed for five minutes or stir-fried.

Nutrition facts

One cup of shelled green peas has 110 calories; one cup of snow peas, only 35 calories. Sugar snap peas have about 45 to 55 calories per cup, depending on the maturity of the peas inside the edible pods. All three are high in vitamin C, but shelled peas also offer a lot of vitamin A.

How to ...

... Shell peas

Think of the pea pod as sealed with a zipper. Take hold of the stem and pull down, "unzipping" the pod. Then run your thumbnail along the seam. Squeeze the pod lightly to open it, then run your finger under the peas inside. Out pop the peas.

For sugar snap and snow peas, pull the stem end down; both lateral strings will pull off with it.

... Store peas

Do not wash the peas till you're ready to use them. Keep unshelled peas in their pods. Peas keep best when loosely wrapped in a plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper; they taste sweetest if used within two days. If you need to keep them longer, consider blanching and freezing – that goes for both shelled and edible-pod peas.

• To blanch and freeze: Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil. Plunge peas into the water; bring back to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Remove the peas from the hot water and plunge them immediately into a large bowl of ice water with ice cubes. That stops the cooking process and sets their green color. Drain and dry on paper towels. Pack in freezer bags or containers and freeze.

... Cook peas

• Basic buttered fresh peas: Allow 1/2 cup of shelled peas per serving. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil; add a little salt. Plunge shelled peas into the boiling water with the heat on high. Cook the peas for 2 to 3 minutes – no more – till they turn bright green and tender. Drain the peas. Put 1 tablespoon of butter in the saucepan and return to the burner on low heat. When the butter melts, return the peas to the pan, add herbs if desired and cook for 2 to 3 more minutes, shaking the pan occasionally so the peas are well buttered. Serve.

• Peas and herbs: Peas blend nicely with fresh herbs. To enliven buttered peas, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of fresh minced mint, basil, chervil or parsley. Herbs boost the flavor of frozen peas, too.

• The lettuce trick: French cooks found this way to keep their peas sweet, fresh and moist. Put 1/3 cup of water in a heavy saucepan with 2 tablespoons of butter. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and line the sides and bottom of the pot with green lettuce leaves (Romaine, butter or other green varieties). Add shelled peas and 1 tablespoon sugar. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Let the peas braise in their lettuce bed for 15 minutes or until tender. Serve immediately. (And, yes, you can eat the lettuce, too, or just the peas.)