CASEY MAR / Special to The Bee

The Auburn Alehouse offers a flight of eight different selections for $7.

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Night Life: Auburn Alehouse a hoppy experience

Published: Friday, Mar. 25, 2011 - 12:00 am | Page 35TICKET

I officially give up winter about this time every year, no matter how cold it is. Every day of sunshine means I can pack away one more wool sweater, pull out one more springtime recipe and take one more spur-of-the-moment road trip.

On one recent sunny, warm afternoon, I hopped onto the highway and soon found myself amid the twisty, hilly streets and gorgeous buildings of historic Auburn.

Inside one of those buildings is the Auburn Alehouse, a brewery and restaurant that has been up and running for more than three years. Tourists and locals can partake of a long list of house-brewed drafts with Auburn- inspired names and descriptions such as Gold Country Pilsner, American River Pale Ale and Shanghai Stout, the latter an homage to the Alehouse's former occupant, the beloved Shanghai Bar and Restaurant, one of the filming sites of the 1996 movie "Phenomenon."

The first thing I noticed upon walking into the Alehouse was the smell. They brew their beer on site, and the massive serving tanks are kept on the upper level. This is visible through a large glass wall, which not only allows customers to see brewers periodically checking up on the batches but also lets the scent of the brewing process waft around the restaurant, adding an extra layer to the experience of drinking these fine beers inside the very brewery from which they originated.

The Alehouse is cozy, made to feel that way even more by the 6-foot-high wooden partitions thrown up throughout the dining area, creating several pockets of privacy but also shrinking the space a bit. The high ceilings help balance this out.

The bar area is completely separated from the dining area with one such partition, creating the feel of two separate worlds operating under one roof. The din in the bar intrigues and captivates.

It drew me right up to the only empty seat at the long, burlwood-style bar. With so many options on the beer menu, I couldn't pick just one, so I asked for a flight of four or so.

A few minutes later, however, bartender Yara Silenciario set in front of me a placemat detailing all the brews served at the Alehouse and proceeded to top it with eight different selections, three ounces apiece. She smiled, disappeared and returned with a large glass of water.

Each of the beers had its own distinct nose, taste and feel, yet each of them fit nicely in a lineup beside the next, tied together by their strong flavor.

"Our brewmaster is really big into hops," said server Marina Shahabian.

She then went on to detail the differences between Auburn Alehouse's beers, focusing on the varieties of hops used and how they interact with each other, and why each beer tastes the way it does.

Learning about what you're drinking makes it more of an interactive and educational experience. It serves as an extra memory to take home from a sunny springtime roadtrip – or even a winter one. After all, this is the town many a Sacramentan visits in that dreary season when sunbeams can't seem to find their way to the Valley floor.

AUBURN ALEHOUSE

289 Washington St., Auburn; (530) 885-2537

www.auburnalehouse.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday.

The vibe: You'll enjoy meeting the locals and learning about the award-winning beers brewed up in this historic building. It's good-natured and relaxed.

Signature drink: It's all about the beer here! The Alehouse has a full bar, but I'd suggest grabbing a flight and asking your bartender for a pick or two. "The staff loves the Fool's Gold," said server Marina Shahabian. "It's so crisp." My tip: The Old Town Brown pairs just about perfectly with a slice of the housemade cheesecake.

Bathroom break: It can get a little crowded during the Alehouse's busier times, so plan your trips in advance. Do take note how the stone countertop's design mimics that of the bar. It lends a sense of continuity – and exemplifies how well thought-out the whole operation really is.

Who would love it: The Alehouse holds multifaceted appeal. The vintage brickwork and photographs of the Shanghai Bar and Restaurant will strike a chord in the history lover. The beer offerings will excite hop heads, and the hospitality will thrill those looking for a friendly place to while away the hours.

Who would hate it: This is certainly no dive. If an anonymous bar with stingy lighting and standard offerings is on the agenda, the Auburn Alehouse is a wrong turn.

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