Fortunately for diners who like to mix it up, more restaurants are offering small-plate options in addition to their standard menus. Our philosophy: Don't confine yourself to one plate of, say, a grilled chicken breast and garlic mashed potatoes, when you can have many smaller plates of goodies with a variety of flavors and textures.
That's the driving concept behind what we've been noticing as a "small-plate movement," likely inspired by the nature of tapas. You know tapas, those varied snacks that originated in Spain. Their appeal is twofold – they can be made from just about anything (halibut cheeks in pesto, for instance, or grilled peaches with honey), and you get to sample a lot of them.
In Sacramento, Tapa the World has long specialized in small plates (yum for the empanadas; 2115 J St., 916-442-4353, www.tapatheworld.com). Aioli Bodega Espanola has been a mainstay for years (the shrimp in garlic-white wine sauce absolutely sings; 1800 L St., 916-447-9440, www.aiolibodega.com). Press Bistro serves a dozen marvelous tastes (fried meatballs with garlic-yogurt sauce is a must-order; 1809 Capitol Ave., 916-444-2566, www.thepressbistro.com).
Farther out, the next time you take a road trip to the Monterey Peninsula, track down small plates at these top restaurants:
In Carmel: Cantinetta Luca for saffroned risotto balls with ham and mozzarella (831-625-6500, www.cantinettaluca.com). Mundaka for house-smoked chicken with shaved cheese in balsamic reduction (831-624-7400, www.mundakacarmel.com).
In Monterey: Esteban for golden beets with lemon-cumin relish (831-375-0176, www.estebanrestaurant.com). Montrio for pancetta-wrapped grilled prawns (831-648-8880, www.montrio.com).
Recently, the subject was small plates and where to find them as lunch pals Darce and Hailey Slate and I grabbed a table at Source, a "global tapas restaurant." Darce is a dentist and Hailey is his 13-year-old daughter, an adventurous diner. "She can handle herself in a sushi bar," her dad said, "and she can cook risotto."
Source occupies the space of the original Toast restaurant in Granite Bay, which became the Quarry Ponds Cafe, then Toast again, and then closed. Now it has a new name and new owners. Expectations are high, as co-owner and executive chef Irie Gengler has served as executive chef at both Crush 29 and the Firehouse. "I look all around the world for the ingredients," he said on the phone later. As the weather warms, the delightful pond-side outdoor patio should begin filling.
We counted 23 tapas on the menu ($6 to $12), plus seven desserts ($4 to $11), and dove right in. Soon the table was crowded with plates of artistically presented delicacies.
"Boquerones and sobrasata" is a classic tapa, a smear of smoked paprika-infused "pork spread" (a cousin of the Calabrian nduja?) on a toasted baguette slice, topped with a marinated white anchovy. A provocative combination, not fishy at all. Hilary: "I did not think pork and fish would go as well together, but I loved it."
The crunch and flavor of the Dungeness crab "tater tots" were such a pleasure that I plan to get three orders for myself next time. No sharing. Hailey: "Spicy, flavorful, sweet."
Next was a trio of hot, crunchy wontons filled with Caribbean-sourced prawns and cream cheese. They were delicious served with a side of pineapple chutney. Hailey: "Crispy, light."
There's an alphabet of cured and smoked meats available, so we were puzzled by two of the choices on the charcuterie plate. Slices of teriyaki sausage were dense and salty, and the domestic prosciutto lacked bite. Surprising, as the prosciutto is from the artisan salumi-maker La Quercia in Iowa. Best of the batch – smoked chorizo from the venerable Morant's Sausage Kitchen of Sacramento.
Hailey: "The peppadews were awesome." She was referring to the trendy South African red pepper – small in stature, a giant in sweet-tangy flavor – that accompanied the meats.
Bits of applewood-smoked bacon from Niman Ranch combined with jack cheese and from-scratch roux to form a needs-more-flavor croquette, with garlicky mayo (aioli) for dipping.
The co-star of the show (after the crab tater tots) was a local actor – grilled sweet asparagus from the Delta, arm-in-arm with a wonderful creamed leek sauce.
On another occasion, I tasted Source's paella – fragrant saffroned rice heavy with Ecuadorean heads-on white shrimp, hefty clams, mussels and chorizo. It's served 7 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays for $20, which includes a beer or glass of wine – and live music.
SOURCE
WHERE: In the Quarry Ponds center, 5540 Douglas Blvd., Granite Bay
HOURS: Lunch is 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays. Weekend brunch is 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Dinner is 5-11 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays.
FOOD: 3 1/2 stars
AMBIENCE: 2 stars inside, 4 stars on the patio
HOW MUCH: $-$$
INFORMATION: (916) 772-3900, www.sourcetapas.com
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