Think "port" and visions of squat, black bottles encrusted with decades of cellar dust are apt to materialize.

While a lot of port is made to lay down and mature into something truly kingly, other ports are meant to be simply princely, laced with verve and daring, ready to drink at release rather than after a long slumber in a cave.

That's the kind of port for which Richard Matranga is celebrated. He calls it Barrister's Port in recognition of his principal occupation as the city attorney for both Angels Camp in Calaveras County and Sonora in Tuolumne County, which is where he also has his Sonora Winery & Port Works, established in 1986.

Matranga's growing interest both in making port and in better understanding his Portuguese heritage culminated in 1996 with his first trip through the vineyards and bodegas of Portugal. He'd already made tawny and vintage ports, but he was on a quest for another model – a port young, fruity, fiery and persistent, but which could be consumed in its youth, not necessarily in old age.

He found the inspiration he sought, and with the vintage of 1997, using traditional Portuguese grape varieties grown in California, he made and released his first Barrister's Port. It was an immediate popular and critical success, picking up a succession of gold medals on the competition circuit.

Matranga's twin careers clicked along smoothly until 2004, when he was diagnosed with Parkinson's disease. He continues to practice law, but 2004 was the last vintage he made wine – until 2009. With a regimen that includes long stints of bowling, a frequent workout he's convinced is helping delay the advance of Parkinson's, he was feeling pretty good in spring 2009 when he read a flattering online review of one of his early ports.

At least, he was feeling pretty good about the commentary until the blogger asked his readers if anyone knew whether Matranga was still alive.

That rankled him. He also was missing the good times he shared with pals who had helped him crush grapes and blend wines. As the 2009 harvest neared, he decided to make at least one more Barrister's Port. He rounded up his old crew of friends and began the project in earnest.

"The opportunity to create something again is pretty nice," Matranga said not long ago as he poured a sample of the Sonora Winery & Port Works 2009 Sierra Foothills Barrister's Port shortly before its formal release.

Like his Barrister's Ports of a decade ago, it's youthful, floral, spicy and smooth. The flavor runs to cherries and berries drizzled with just a thin stream of chocolate. It's got the deep color, firm spine and abiding sweetness expected of all respectable ports, but what lingers the longest on the palate and in memory is its harmony and completeness. It may be young as ports go, but it has the mature seamlessness and balance of all finely crafted ports.

As in the past, the Barrister's Port was blended from batches of four traditional Portuguese grape varieties grown at Stu Spencer's Amador County vineyard.

Will the 2009 be the last Barrister's Port?

"Probably," Matranga said. "I had a great time making this port. I'm so lucky to have been given an opportunity to end my winemaking career on a high note, but it is time to slow down."

Besides, he has a couple of other distractions now. He's playing keyboards in not one but two bands when he isn't bowling or reviewing the merits of this or that ordinance before the city councils of Angels Camp and Sonora.

Sonora Winery & Port Works

2009 Sierra Foothills Barrister's Port

By the numbers: 18 percent alcohol, 10 percent residual sugar, 1,000 cases, $30

Context: As with all grand ports, the Barrister's is made for sipping on its own, but despite its youth it has the depth and breadth to stand up to such customary port accompaniments as Stilton cheese and walnuts.

Availability: Though Richard Matranga is trying to line up a Sacramento source for the port, it now is available only at a few outlets in the Sierra foothills, including the winery at 17500 Route 5 Road in Sonora. The winery is open by appointment only. (209) 532-7678.

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Longtime wine critic and competition judge Mike Dunne continues his relationship with The Bee as a contributing columnist to the Food & Wine section and www.sacwineregion.com. His wine selections are based solely on open and blind tastings, judging at competitions and visits to wine regions. Check out his blog at http://ayearinwine. blogspot.com, and reach him at mikedunne@winegigs.com.

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