Casey Mar / Special to The Bee

Gai lan (Chinese broccoli) in spicy garlic oyster sauce is a standout for flavor and value at Red Lotus.

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Night Life: Small plates are the real deal at Red Lotus

Published: Friday, Jun. 24, 2011 - 12:00 am | Page 38TICKET

Red Lotus Kitchen and Bar

2718 J St., Sacramento

(916) 231-0961

www.facebook.com/redlotusmidtown

Kitchen hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday

Bar hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Tuesday, 11:30 a.m.-midnight Wednesday and Thursday, 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday

Happy hour: 3-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday

The real steal: Select from a list of eight small plates featuring some unexpected happy-hour munchies, such as cauliflower in XO sauce and spicy tuna spring rolls, all priced at $5. One standout dish is the gai lan (Chinese broccoli) in a spicy garlic oyster sauce. It's not as fishy as many oyster sauce dishes tend to be, and the garlic and red pepper flakes add a slight heat without overpowering the subtly bitter freshness of the leafy gai lan, which is cooked to a tender crispness. Wash down the $5 bites with bottled beer – Tsingtao for $3 or Budweiser, Bud Light or Coors Light for $2.75, or a $3 well drink, or $5 house wine.

The vibe: The sleek, hip décor of Red Lotus can be intimidating at first. Massive brick interior walls and dark wood floors pair with pops of color from large, bright paintings throughout the space. The semicircle bar dominates the center of the dining room. As happy hour begins, the bar is often pretty quiet, but after a couple of hours, the crowds start to trickle in. The service here is friendly and welcoming, a homey vibe that one might not expect from a restaurant decorated so boldly.

Signature drink: The craft cocktail menu reads like a textbook in mixology. Each of the specialty drinks is carefully concocted with fresh, house-made ingredients and a healthy dose of creativity. The Gold Rush ($7) is bourbon, fresh lemon juice and honey syrup poured over a single block of ice and served stirred in a tumbler. The slightly viscous cocktail is sweet, but not overpoweringly so, so it works well before dinner or as a dessert drink. For a more summery experience, grab a Flor Dora ($8), a highball made with gin, fresh lime juice, house-made grenadine and ginger ale. It looks like pink lemonade, but tastes like a gimlet's more sophisticated cousin. Depth of flavor is added by the grenadine, and the texture is enhanced by the ginger ale's bubbles.

Bathroom break: The low lighting in the bathrooms is in stark contrast to the bright natural lighting in the bar. It's zen and calm – and several degrees cooler. Care is taken in the presentation here.

Take a seat: The bar is the place to be. Watching the bartenders crank out specialty cocktails like it's child's play is entertaining and, when business is slower, can be a learning experience. The bartenders are knowledgeable and happily answer customer questions.

Something extra: The front patio is just right for winding down during happy hour. It offers a view of J Street and Marshall Park, and catches afternoon shade, which is highly sought-after during these scorching summer months.

CAPITOL DAWG

1226 20th St., Sacramento

(916) 444-1226

www.capitoldawg.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday- Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Second Saturdays, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday

Happy hour: 4-8 p.m. Monday- Thursday

The deals: You might scoff at the notion that you can get a meal plus dessert for six bucks, but Capitol Dawg's Cappy Hour deals might change your mind. Dawgs of the Capitol, turkey or veggie variety, are $2 each, as are corn dawgs and veggie corn dawgs. (All the add-ons are extra and cost the regular menu price.) Also $2 each are garlic fries, double scoops of ice cream and bottled beers, with choices ranging from Pabst to Newcastle to Anchor Steam.

LEVEL UP LOUNGE

2431 J St., Sacramento

(916) 448-8768

www.leveluplounge.com

Hours: 5 p.m.-midnight Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday, 5 p.m.- 2 a.m. Thursday-Saturday, closed Monday

Happy hour: All night Tuesday-Thursday and 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

The deals: Level Up is owned and operated by downstairs neighbor Thai Basil and the $3.50 and $5 small plates reflect that: chicken or veggie spring rolls ($5) and lettuce wraps ($5), for example. The veggie tempura, fried in a lightly seasoned batter and served with a spicy-sweet chili sauce, is $3.50. Budweiser, Bud Light and Coors Light bottles are $2. Newcastle, Amstel Light and Blue Moon drafts are $3. Shots are $4.Do you know of a bar that has amazingly good deals on drinks and food? Share the scoop with The Bee, and we'll highlight it as part of this Night Life feature. Email sacbeenightlife@gmail.com.

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