A walk in the woods near Lake Tahoe was just the thing to stir our appetites. That morning, we'd taken the Fallen Leaf Lake road off Highway 89 (just past Camp Richardson) and driven back to the Glen Alpine trailhead, near Lily Lake.
Our manageable round trip took us past swatches of wildflowers, stands of firs and aspen, alluvial fans and raging waterfalls (including Modjeska Falls, a.k.a. Upper Glen Alpine Falls; go to www.lorraineofthelake.com to see pictures). We explored Soda Spring, which bubbles out of the ground near a cluster of antique structures, survivors from the 1880s, when Glen Alpine Springs was a resort.
After three hours, we headed for Stateline, Nev., and the Edgewood Tahoe golf course. Some call the sport of golf "a good walk spoiled." We think about the "good walk" part whenever we drop by Edgewood. It's a rare place, set lakeside and surrounded by mountains and trees.
Edgewood's big summer event is the annual American Century Championship Tournament Week (held July 12-17 this year). It's an actual made-for-TV phenomenon (owned by NBC Sports) in which "sports and entertainment stars" gather for crowd-pleasing high jinks on the links (and at the craps tables inside Harrah's and Harveys after dark).
Edgewood has two restaurants. The pricy one – the Edgewood – is a formal dining hall where a seared elk chop with sun-dried cherry relish and spaetzle costs $36.
More casual and reasonable is Brook's Bar & Deck, though it should be renamed "Deck & Bar," as the striking patio is more comfortable than the indoor dining area and sports bar.
In a clever marketing move, diners headed to Brook's must walk through the pro shop. Apparently, all that paraphernalia is so irresistible that the low-handicap crowd might break out those American Express cards for impulse purchases.
Though the bar is handsome, we wondered why a class act like this would embed video poker/ slot/keno machines into it. Because they can?
Outside, the well-landscaped patio area overlooks a slice of the lake and some gorgeous acreage of fairways and putting greens. We sat at a table under a giant umbrella. The menu shows a breakfast buffet ($14), and appetizers ($7-$16), salads ($11 to $15), entrees ($13-$15) and desserts ($6 each), including a big s'more.
The ahi Napoleon was loaded with sushi-grade yellowfin tuna called "saku," sold at sushi bars as "maguro." The bait-size pieces of previously frozen fish sat atop a semi-crisp wonton with avocado. The tower was topped with a tangle of fluorescent seaweed. What little flavor the fish possessed was overwhelmed by a sharp soy-sherry vinaigrette A confusion of textures and tastes made for a woeful dish.
More than making up for that, the half-pound sirloin burger was as good as a burger gets. The medium-rare patty should be a template – meaty-tasting, succulent, firm, well-seasoned. The grilled ciabatta roll held up well to fresh lettuce, tomato, red onion and Dijon mustard. We added crisp applewood-smoked bacon, melted Swiss cheese and sauteed fresh mushrooms ($1 each from a list of eight extra toppings). Next time, we'll hold the fries and ask for a side of fresh fruit.
"Love the burger, but a great salad is a real find," said one lunch pal. She referred to the Firecracker Salad – skewers of juicy chicken satay atop a spring mix of greens and a confetti of diced yellow and green bell peppers. The spicy peanut-based dressing was a marvel.
"There's a 'yum' in every bite," said another lunch pal.
Other dishes we liked a lot: tri-tip French dip with an intense jus; and a twist on fish 'n' chips, using a beer-battered salmon instead of the usual pollock, cod or halibut.
You might plan a visit soonish, as Brook's goes dark in mid- October.
BROOK'S BAR & DECK
WHERE: At the Edgewood Tahoe golf course, 100 Lake Parkway, Stateline, Nev. (in back of Harveys)
HOURS: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily during golf season, May to mid-October. The formal Edgewood Restaurant is open for dinner year-round (775) 588-2787.
FOOD: 3 1/2 stars
AMBIENCE: 4 stars
HOW MUCH: $$
INFORMATION: (775) 588-6183
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