This is a story about a book devoted entirely to the magical, mystical sauce that seems to have originated in Thailand and, in recent years, developed a significant and practically obsessive following in the United States.

"The Sriracha Cookbook" is a wonderful little book (Ten Speed Press, $16.99, 114 pages) that embraces flavor, celebrates creativity and, most of all, trumpets the wonders and versatility of a single condiment that just might change the way you think about eating.

Written by Randy Clemens, a 27-year-old from Southern California who graduated from the California School of Culinary Arts, it also is a controversial book.

You really should stop reading right now if you might be the least bit tempted to fire off an email like this: "Dude, I tried some of those Sriracha recipes and they were way too hot."

Are the recipes hot? Yes. Are they too hot? Yes. Is too hot really, really good? The heated argument starts here.

I tested several of the easy-to-follow recipes and found myself, at turns, overjoyed, overwhelmed and, sometimes in desperation, I overindulged in the nearest cold something-or-other. Water, cold beer, yogurt. I tried them all. I gasped, I sweated, I cowered, I smiled and then I ate some more.

The Five-Alarm Lentil Soup could also be dubbed "The Marlon Brando," for I was bellowing "Stella! Stella!" after the second spoonful. When I sounded the alarm, I was holding a Stella Artois in a frosty glass. It was an appropriate and delicious way to douse the fire.

For those who think that heat-seeking recklessness can't be reconciled with your sensitive side, this soup recipe was entirely vegetarian, extremely healthy and, if you left out the sour cream as a garnish (and heat reducer), it's actually a vegan meal.

Clemens' book has come out just as Sriracha has gone mainstream. Commonplace in Thai and Vietnamese restaurants, Sriracha has become a secret weapon in the kitchens of many top chefs, whether their cuisine is French, new American, Asian fusion or eclectic. The condiment has been the subjects of stories in the New York Times and Bon Appétit magazine, among others.

Clemens learned about Sriracha from a classmate whose parents were from Vietnam. When he began visiting his home a dozen years ago, it was an eye-opening, lip-smacking experience.

"His mom cooked some delicious food. I was just hooked on the flavors," Clemens said in a recent telephone interview. "Sriracha was there on the table. It was completely new to me. I had never seen it or heard of it. I wasn't a hot sauce fiend. But I put it on the rice and I was blown away."

That was my experience with Clemens' recipe called the Ultimate Sriracha Burger. As The Bee's restaurant critic, I have enjoyed several excellent burgers in Sacramento and many ho-hum burgers. This recipe, starring Sriracha mixed with soy sauce, would be a hit at nearly any restaurant in town.

Sriracha – made simply of sun-ripened chilies and garlic ground into a smooth paste – is not all about the heat. Its balance and hint of the exotic makes it stand out from ordinary hot sauces. And when it is cooked into the ground beef, it doesn't dominate the flavor of the meat – it accentuates it.

Yes, this burger is super hot. But the amount of Sriracha can be tweaked according to your preference.

That was how we approached the Baked Mac 'n' Cheese. After our five-alarm experience with the lentil soup, we tiptoed back into the Sriracha universe by cutting in half the recipe's recommendation to use 1/4 cup of Sriracha. It worked very well. The heat was slow in coming, tempered by the ample amounts of sharp cheddar and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The crisp bread crumb topping was excellent, too, thanks to panko bread crumbs, which are often seen in Japanese cooking.

The book is divided neatly into several categories, from sauces and seasonings to main courses. There are breakfast recipes, a bold cole slaw that will stand out at any party or potluck and there's even a Sriracha and cheese bread that will add a punch to any sandwich.

In the end, what distinguishes this book is not only Clemens' passion for and appreciation of Sriracha, but his ability to craft recipes that that showcase this appealing condiment while being thoughtful about its role in each dish.

Does Sriracha make everything better? That's up to you to decide. But it certainly makes every soup, salad, burger and homespun comfort food in this book more entertaining.

You'll gasp, you'll sweat and you may shed a tear or two. But this book could also be the start of a new and delicious obsession.

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Call The Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099.

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