In Japan and the world of spirits, it's revered as the "drink of the gods." We're talking about sake, the Japanese drink made from rice and water, originally consumed for spiritual functions and now a staple of your favorite sushi spot.

The year's been trying for the Japanese sake industry following the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami that devastated Japan in March. Thousands of people died, and sake breweries were among the many businesses that faced severe damage, especially breweries in the northeastern Tohoku region. Exports slowed because of inspections for radiation contamination.

That's why this year's annual Northern California Premium Sake Fest takes on a poignant tone amid the celebrations. The seventh annual event will be Oct. 12 at the Sheraton Grand Sacramento, featuring some two dozen sake producers, a smorgasbord of sushi and other activities. You'll also find a silent auction with proceeds benefiting the Tsunami Relief Fund. The World Bank has said that Japan may need five years to recover.

"The shortage of electricity and transportation slowed everything down (after the earthquake)," said Judy Inaba of North American Food Distributing Co. Inc., which sponsors the sake festival.

"With the radiation, rice and products used for sake had to be checked, so the USDA blocked imports from certain areas. A lot was held back at the beginning, but now we're only delayed a week or two because of (safety) checks."

So what should you look for if you're new to sake?

First, note the various classifications on the bottle. Each refers to the level that the rice was milled, and the more polish applied to the sake, the higher the quality:

Junmai: Also known as "pure sake," at least 30 percent of the rice has been milled away, leaving a full-flavored drink.

Junmai ginjo: At least 40 percent of the rice has been milled; it's known for a fruity flavor profile.

Junmai daiginjo: At least 50 percent of the rice has been milled away, creating a complex, floral sake that drinks clean.

If you're looking to sample sake on your own, there's an extensive selection at Oto's Market, 4990 Freeport Blvd., Sacramento; (916) 424-2398.

Russell Oto, the store's general manager, recommends being considerate of temperature. While inexpensive sakes are generally consumed warm, higher quality sakes tend to show better at cooler temperatures. Just don't go overboard.

"Junmai daiginjo are better when they're a little chilled, but not as cold as beer," said Oto. "To me, the chill brings out a lot more flavor."

Here are a few sakes to seek out when you're shopping:

Otokoyama Sake Tokubetsu Junmai ($22.99 for 720-milliliter bottle, 15 percent to 16 percent alcohol): Established in 1661, this sake producer crafts a smooth and clear sake with a fruit-driven flavor.

Hana Fuji Apple Flavored Sake ($10.99 for 750-milliliter bottle, 8 percent alcohol): There's been a trend toward flavored sakes, and this one smells and tastes like a green apple Jolly Rancher. But it drinks fairly light with low alcohol, making it a hit at an informal tasting. "I want to make an 'appletini' with it, or warm it up and add a cinnamon stick," said one taster.

Mu Sake Junmai Daiginjo ($32.99 for a 720-milliliter bottle, 15 percent alcohol): Junmai daiginjo sakes don't come cheap, and at just over $30, this one is a relative steal. It's at once soft and floral. Kanpai!

Northern California Premium Sake Fest

What: Taste premium sakes and sample Japanese food, with proceeds benefiting the Tsunami Relief Fund.

When: 6-9 p.m. Oct. 12

Where: Sheraton Grand Sacramento, 1230 J St., Sacramento

Cost: $60 in advance by Oct. 10, $70 at door

Information: (916) 373-1111, ext. 120; www.nafdc.com.

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Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

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