We borrowed the title of a Ramones song to serve as our mantra this summer: "Hey Ho Let's Go." And we did, visiting a cornucopia of restaurants during weekend road trips around Northern California and into Nevada.
With fall here, we thought we'd pause to look back at some of those favorites, which could become some of yours.
LAKE TAHOE
The West Shore Cafe changed ownership and hired veteran chef Rusty Johns to revamp the menu. Consequently, it was jammed all summer. The good reasons include the fried chicken, crab bruschetta and flat iron steak.
The restaurant will be open "through Oct. 16 or longer," said general manager Rob Curtis. Then it will close for renovation "until the snow flies, but maybe we'll reopen before then." Look for Friday-Monday winter hours, but check the website for updates.
West Shore Cafe, 5160 West Lake Blvd., Homewood; (530) 525-5200, www.westshorecafe.com.
PlumpJack Cafe was the "People's Choice" darling at the recent Lake Tahoe Autumn Food & Wine Festival. Its plum and cinnamon braised beef short rib with mac 'n' cheese, teamed with Orin Swift Cellars 2008 Papillon red blend, took first place for "best food and wine pairing." That same short rib dish also won first for "best food."
On offer are the likes of pork tenderloin, softshell crab, homemade hummus and prosciutto pizza.
PlumpJack Cafe, 1920 Squaw Valley Road, Olympic Valley, (530) 583-1578, www.plumpjackcafe.com.
RENO
The Gold 'n' Silver Inn hasn't changed much since it opened in 1956, and that's a good thing. The veteran waitresses call you "hon," and the motto is "Everybody fits in." The place was a hit when it appeared on an episode of "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives."
Of course, no 24/7 diner would be the real thing without chicken-fried steak and country gravy. We liked the "buttermilk breaded" chicken wings, too.
Gold 'n' Silver Inn, 790 W. 4th St.; (775) 323-2696, www.goldnsilverreno.com.
NAPA VALLEY
Sure, you can spend $270 on a nine-course prix fixe experience at chef-owner Thomas Keller's legendary French Laundry (just what is a "calotte de boeuf grillée," anyway?), or go wild at his Bouchon Bakery. The best part: Its world-class breads and pastries contain absolutely no fat or calories. Well, maybe some.
Bouchon Bakery, 6528 Washington St., Yountville; (707) 944-2253, www.bouchonbakery.com.
SAN FRANCISCO
John's Grill, which opened in 1908, has the cachet of a classic dining house and the menu to back it up. Find a table in the "Maltese Falcon" room and start with oysters Wellington, move to sautéed petrale sole and end with house-made vanilla bean ice cream.
John's Grill, 63 Ellis St.; (415) 986-0069, www.johnsgrill.com.
At the stylishly handsome Colibri ("hummingbird"), we dipped handmade mini-tortillas into cilantro-accented guacamole, followed by fall-apart carnitas.
Colibri, 438 Geary St., (415) 440-2737; www.colibrimexicanbistro.com.
SAUSALITO
Take your pick: Go upscale with Poggio's northern Italian dishes (lamb tongue with marinated beets, hand-cut pappardelle pasta with meat sauce). Or scale down with an excellent Wimpy at tiny Bridgeway Hamburgers (takeout only), the least pretentious place in town.
Poggio, 777 Bridgeway Ave., (415) 332-7771, www.poggiotrattoria.com.
Bridgeway Hamburgers, 737 Bridgeway Ave., (415) 332-9471.
MONTEREY/CARMEL
Amid the souvenir shops that crowd Fisherman's Wharf is Cafe Fina. Say "wow!" to cioppino, sautéed mussels, steamed cherrystone clams, blackened salmon and housemade pastas.
Cafe Fina, 47 Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey; (831) 372-5200, www.cafefina.com.
Carmel brims with great restaurants, but our road always leads to Casanova. The delightful labyrinth is modeled after the country inns of France. The casual vibe extends to the straightforward menu (chicken, lamb, seafood), but those seemingly simple dishes take you by surprise with their sophisticated demeanor.
Casanova, Fifth Avenue between Mission and San Carlos streets, Carmel; (831) 625-0501, www.casanovarestaurant.com.COUNTER
CULTURE
By Allen Pierleoni
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