I have been keeping my eye on Cafe Capricho for more than a year now, ever since my first visit shortly after the place opened.

Back then, I considered the food above average, but I didn't think there was an identity, a sense of purpose, I could relate to, and the décor practically screamed "shoestring budget."

Were these folks serious about being in it for the long haul? Or would the infatuation with running a restaurant wear off after the umpteenth 14-hour day and the inevitable off-color slam from some chump with a Yelp account?

Slowly but surely, Cafe Capricho put down roots, gained strength and began to emerge as a force to be admired in east Sacramento. Now, if you're wondering what an inspired little neighborhood eatery is supposed to be like, look no further.

At its best, it's very friendly, laid-back, understated, homespun and unpretentious. Once, when I told the woman at the counter that I enjoyed the food, she smiled, held up her hand and said, "High five!"

This cafe is making plenty of good moves and paying attention to lots of little things that lead to lasting success. It's also winning with two big things: the food and the prices.

Since that initial visit, I have come to love the food and the curiously eclectic sweep of the menu.

Under one roof I have enjoyed the following meals: an omelet filled with roasted butternut squash, mushrooms and roasted poblano peppers; a quinoa salad with dried cranberries, Fuji apple and pecans over mixed greens and featuring two kinds of dressings that unite on the palate with a wonderful mix of sweet and tart; a steak quesadilla with plenty of flavor; a chorizo burrito that smelled as good as it tasted; a chile verde burrito bolstered by fresh tomatillos and fresh peppers; a tasty little mushroom quesadilla seasoned with epazote; and yes, a "Jack burger" loaded with avocado, lettuce and tomato, bacon, cheese, red onions and, for that spicy blast on the tongue, slices of jalapeños. Pancakes and French toast? They're here, too.

Not only was the half-pound burger I had hearty and scrumptious, it was only $5.99. In a world of trophy burgers that cost $10 and $15 – even a $17 burger at Morton's that must have started off as an April Fool's joke – the Capricho offering is a serious bargain.

Is this a Mexican restaurant? Californian fusion? Is it a New Age cafe? A neighborhood joint? A place for creative expression? It's all that – and delicious.

We recently slipped in for one of our several visits during what Cafe Capricho dubbed "customer appreciation day." That alone sums up the restaurant's attitude. It is thankful, humble and open to feedback. It wants to do good things, and it strives to keep getting better.

That afternoon, a warm and sunny Sunday, we sat outside at a sidewalk table and listened to some very good music (the band was called ZuhG, and the woman on vocals with that soulful smoky sound needs to get an agent).

The place was seriously slammed and everyone was having a good time. I was in no hurry. The only other thing on my agenda that day was to fall asleep in front of golf on TV. As we sat waiting for our food, I thought about how cool the scene was, and how Sacramento could use more of this vibe at its restaurants. It was practically a little street party, with a nice mix of ages.

Cafe Capricho is a thoughtful place, but it doesn't overthink things. If it sounds right and it feels right, they do it. I think that's why the cooking feels so subtle and soulful.

The woman behind all this has no formal culinary training, hails from a small town outside Mexico City, learned to cook at the feet of her grandmother and got the last name "Winchester" from her husband, Edwin, who is of English and German descent.

Owner Marina Winchester is the heart and soul in the kitchen. Her recipes are in her head and she goes about her work by talent and instinct and a smattering of osmosis. Nevermind measuring cups. She cooks, she smells, she tastes, she serves. The food is fresh and unhurried, and it shows.

If you're wondering about the flavor of the chile verde burrito, for instance, it's that way because this cook has a thing for garlic – more like a handful than a pinch. The carne adobada dish is brimming with balanced flavor because of a marinating process that allows the spices to settle into the thin strips of tender pork. Add some nopal (cactus), fluffy rice, charo beans, guacamole and a little sauce made with guijillo chiles, and you have one seriously good meal – for $8.95.

That burger I loved for its thick slab of ground beef and lingering spicy heat was best followed with a cold beer in a chilled glass. There's a touch of soul to the beer selection, too. The list is relatively small, but they carry the good stuff, like Stella Artois, Modelo, Pacifico, Fat Tire and Blue Moon. There are even two hard ciders on tap from Sacramento's own Two Rivers Cider – pomegranate and a chica agave.

With the recent rainstorm that just blasted Sacramento out of a pleasant summer that hung around two weeks too long, Winchester is planning to put soup on the menu as we dig out our wool sweaters for the chilly weeks before us.

I'm certainly looking forward to more of her natural way with flavors, just as I look forward to watching this charming little place evolve into something special – a cafe that's humble, purposeful and enduring.

Cafe Capricho

3269 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento

(916) 457-3916

cafecapricho.webs.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Full Bar? Beer and wine only.

Vegetarian friendly? Very.

Takeout? Yes.

Overall: 3 stars (good)

The gradual emergence of this little restaurant over the past year is an inspiration. The first-time owner has no formal culinary training, but her blend of traditional Mexican cuisine with touches of California cooking here and there offers a refreshing take on casual food done the right way.

Food: 3 stars (good)

The attention to detail in the kitchen is impressive and the range of the menu is quirky and fun. Quesadillas, hamburger, omelets, enchiladas and, yes, French toast. It's all here, with some pretty cool beer, wine and hard cider selections. Vegetarians and vegans are not overlooked either.

Service: 3 stars (good)

You order at the counter, but the folks here are very friendly and attentive. They recognize you after a couple of visits and their demeanor makes it feel the way a neighborhood eatery should feel.

Ambience: 2 1/2 stars (pretty good)

The decor is somewhat sparse and the acoustics could use some work, but the casual informality of the cafe seems to suit the space.

Value: 4 stars (excellent)

The prices here are very impressive for what you get and no one walks away feeling gouged. All of the dinner platters are under $10, large salads are less than $7, burritos range from $1.99 to $6.99 and the stuffed omelets served with home potatoes and toast cost $6.95 to $7.85.

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Call The Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099.

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