Two lunch pals and I scooted into a roomy booth in the upstairs dining room. A fast-moving server appeared with oversize menus. Nearby, locals astride tartan-covered stools at the bar were absorbed in college football games on flat-screen TVs.
I felt compelled to quote from the swordfight scene in Shakespeare's "Macbeth": "Lay on, MacDuff, and damned be him that first cries, 'Hold, enough!' "
I thought the quote fitting – as we were in the 10-month-old MacDuff's Public House in South Lake Tahoe – but I got no applause from the two lunch pals, only blank looks.
Moving on, we scanned MacDuff's intriguing menu of appetizers (hand-cut beer-battered Maui onion rings), pizzas fired in an oak wood-burning oven (one is topped with shrimp, hot Italian sausage, bacon, jalapeño and pesto), burgers (beef and lamb, veggie and chicken, even fish) and "pub fare" that reflects the restaurant's Scottish theme. The kitchen makes just about everything from scratch ($6-$10).
We'd come to town that morning to scout the quaking-aspen situation. Had the leaves turned from green to spectacular gold? Not yet, but they will have by the time you read this. The remaining window to see them is now through the first week in November.
One way to do that is via Anderson's Bike Rentals on 13th Street at Emerald Bay Road; (530) 541-0500. Owner Doug Anderson will give you a map to guide you past meadows and through stands of aspen, and by the kokanee salmon spawn up Taylor Creek.
Or drive into the Hope Valley for the orange and gold plumage of aspen, alder, willow and cottonwood. Take Highway 89 south off Highway 50, on the outskirts of South Lake Tahoe. The valley is ahead; turn right at the stop sign, toward Kirkwood ski resort, and you're there. Or turn left for Sorensen's Resort, where you'll find garlicky stew, Kobe beef burgers and berry cobbler.
Back at MacDuff's, we eyed the heaped plates on our table. "You need a hearty appetite for this – or a group of hearty friends," lunch pal No. 1 said.
"They're doing a great job with their food," added No. 2, a former restaurateur and cooking instructor.
We found a rich version of clam chowder with just the right consistency. It vibrated with flavor and teased with whispers of sage, oregano and bay leaf – but why was it lukewarm?
The shepherd's pie arrived in a large ramekin, a sweet-tasting classic of ground lamb, carrot, onion, celery, peas and gravy topped with dark mashed- potato crust and a scatter of scallion.
Even better was the ramekin of mac 'n' cheese, made with white cheddar, mozzarella, Parmesan and cream cheeses. The "mac" part is cavatappi, a spiraled tube also called "double elbow macaroni." It can be customized with 13 add-ons ($1 each), basically toppings for the pizzas. We chose fresh spinach, wild mushrooms, Italian sausage and olives. Best dish on the table.
"We cook the mac 'n' cheese and the shepherd's pie in the pizza oven," co-owner Bob Nielsen said later on the phone.
The Forester Burger (with fries) was a double handful – house-ground beef, sautéed mushrooms, white truffle oil and Parmesan "crisp," with lettuce, tomato and red onion. Great quality, but the chef might consider replacing the mundane bun with something artisanal and worthy of the sandwich. The hand-cut fries are from Idaho russets – good-looking, but they lost their crispness as they cooled.
Studying the beer list, another quote came to mind, this one from a character in "Henry V": "I would give all my fame for a pot of ale," he says.
We recommend the Monkey Knife Fight pale ale, one of nine beers on tap and 13 in bottles. There's no mead, but there are two ciders. There was no time for a sampling, alas – and therein lay the rub.
MacDUFF'S PUBLIC HOUSE
WHERE: 104 Fremont Ave., South Lake Tahoe
HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily; late-night menu until 2 a.m.
FOOD: 1/2
AMBIENCE: 1/2
HOW MUCH: $$
INFORMATION: (530) 542-8777, www.macduffspub.com
COUNTER
CULTURE
By Allen Pierleoni
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Call The Bee's Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128.
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