RENO – Mark Estee, who runs Moody's Bistro and who regularly shows up as a featured guest or competitor in Tahoe events, is causing a stir in Reno these days.

He's making the move here with a new restaurant.

Ordinarily, a new restaurant would not be worth noting, but this is Estee. His Moody's is an institution in northeastern California. Also, this restaurant is opening in an area of downtown Reno that is quickly becoming a destination, the Riverwalk.

The restaurant is Campo, which was set to debut this week but now will open Nov. 16. Campo means "gathering place," and Estee calls it a "neighborhood restaurant with rustic cooking, offering whatever is fresh and seasonal. It is not another Moody's. For one thing, it is going to be very inexpensive. I want it to be as unpretentious as possible."

Estee is genuinely excited about this project. He walks through the operation, pointing out where everything "lives."

"This is where the Cirigliano Forni lives, all wood, made in Naples." Um, that would be the pizza oven.

"This is where the Euromilan and Saima will live." Those are the pasta makers.

And the Stagionello? That's the salami case. And, it will live close to the entrance.

Estee describes his venture as unique. It isn't everywhere you can get coffee in the morning and be invited into the back to watch the butchering (note, not the slaughter) of a pig. Fresh ingredients, indeed.

"We've got wine by the keg, big in Vegas right now," he said, "and we will also make sodas, flavored phosphates like you used to find in drugstore soda fountains. Plus, we have a host of special nights and promotions."

Like "No Ni Night" on the second Sunday of each month, offering a menu of a grandmother's or grandfather's recipes, to be served family style at the restaurant's three communal tables.

"The recipes will be from our friends of Campo and anyone who would like to share a story and recipes with us," Estee said. "We will need to assign the nights one month in advance. The person who is nominating the No or the Ni must write a paragraph that we will share with the customers. We would ask that the person be present for both seatings to share with the guests. The paragraph should be about the recipes and what they mean to you. The kitchen at Campo will do the best we can to re- create these dishes."

Then there is Farmer, Food and Friend Night every third Tuesday, serving a special food or the products of a selected farmer, with a set part of the price shared with local nonprofits.

There will also be wine seminars on First Saturdays, Movie and Meatballs Mondays every week (a serving free with a movie stub from the Cinemax multiplex across the street, plus a movie projected on the wall), New Cocktails Wednesdays; and Thursday Date Nights with a special prix fixe menu for two.

"I saw this spot 1 1/2 years ago," said Estee, "and I made an offer which was rejected, and I looked at other places, but this is the spot I wanted."

It makes sense. Campo will be operating in the heart of what is becoming one of Reno's most active areas, Sierra Street and the river. It is not the only restaurant there.

The Wild River Grille and the River Room are across the water, both located on the main floor of what was once the famous Riverside Hotel. The newly reopened Sienna is just down the river. The new and popular Old Granite Street Eatery is a block way. (Sierra Street used to be Granite Street.)

The area had stood neglected for decades. The downtown businesses along it had their backs to it. A block away, the river was best known as the symbolic spot to throw wedding rings into the water after getting a "Reno divorce" (although few of any value were ever tossed).

Then came change. The Harold Smith Riverwalk was built (named for the founder of the famous Harolds Club). The long-neglected and empty Mapes Hotel was imploded, creating open air. Mapes had once suggested paving over a block of the river to make a parking lot.

Movie theaters and other businesses were built. Artown and other special events brought concerts to Mapes Plaza and Wingfield Park. The Truckee River Kayak Park was constructed.

There are still some unfortunate leftovers of the old days. Businesses complain that one part of the riverfront, Brick Park, still needs attention.

Mainly, the area is bustling, and Campo has been keenly awaited since rumors Estee was coming to town began two years ago.

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