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Garden Detective: Harvesting and planting cypress seed pods

Published: Saturday, Dec. 3, 2011 - 12:00 am | Page 9CALIFORNIA LIFE
Last Modified: Monday, Dec. 5, 2011 - 11:49 am

Q: I have a question about Italian cypress, in particular their seed pods.

There are a lot of seed pods on two of our six cypress trees. There are probably close to 200 pods.

I would like to harvest and plant as many as I can. What is the best way to accomplish this task?

– Nathaniel Bacon, Vacaville

A; According to UC Master Gardener Bill Pierce, Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) seeds exhibit embryo dormancy, so stratification for about four weeks at 35 to 40 degrees F. will improve germination.

To stratify, place the seeds in damp peat moss or potting soil in a sealed container in the refrigerator. After four weeks, plant the seeds in individual 3- or 4-inch pots, filled with potting soil.

Place the pots in a shady area and keep the soil mix damp but not soggy.

When the seedlings are 3 or 4 inches high, gradually move them to a full sun location. Do this by giving them sun for an hour the first day, two the next, then three. After four hours of sun a day, they can be moved to a full-sun position outdoors.

Q: We had two Bradford "fruitless pear" trees removed from our backyard and had a professional do a stump grinding. We thought we had removed enough, but pear shoots say differently.

I have planted a trident maple and a crape myrtle where the old trees were. We now have several remaining roots from the fruitless pears right at ground level, which are sending up shoots or new growth. I have been removing the new growth, but they keep on coming.

Do I need to find and dig out all of the remaining roots to completely stop these growths? Is there an easier way? Will these shoots become new trees?

Thank you for any information you can provide.

– Roy Todd, Sacramento

A: Cutting down the sprouts from the roots of your Bradford pears is the correct approach, says UC Master Gardener Bill Pierce.

Cut or hoe them as soon as they appear. This way the sprouts will not create any energy for the old roots.

Eventually, the stored food in the old roots will be depleted and no more sprouts will appear.

In addition, the product Sucker Stopper can be used to kill the sprouts. It is intended for the sprouts on live trees but also will be effective in cases such as yours.

GARDEN QUESTIONS?

Questions are answered by master gardeners at the UC Cooperative Extension services in Sacramento and Placer counties.

Send questions to Garden Detective, P.O. Box 15779, Sacramento, CA 95852. Send email to h&g@sacbee.com. Please put "Garden Detective" in the subject field and include your postal address. To contact your UC Extension directly, call:

• Sacramento: (916) 875-6913; 9 a.m.-noon and 1-4 p.m. weekdays

• Amador: (209) 223-6838; 10 a.m.-noon Monday through Thursday; email ceamador.ucdavis.edu

• Butte: (530) 538-7201; 8 a.m.-noon and 1-5 p.m. weekdays

• El Dorado: (530) 621-5512; 9 a.m.-noon weekdays

• Placer: (530) 889-7388; 9 a.m.-noon on Tuesdays, Wednesday and Thursdays or leave a message and calls will be returned

• Nevada: (530) 273-0919; 9 a.m.-noon Tuesdays through Thursday or leave a message

• Shasta, Tehama, Trinity: (530) 225-4605

• Solano: (707) 784-1322; leave a message and calls will be returned

• Sutter, Yuba: (530) 822-7515; 9 a.m.-noon Mondays and Tuesdays and 1-4 p.m. Thursdays

• Yolo: (530) 666-8737; 9-11 a.m. Tuesdays and Fridays, or leave a message and calls will be returned

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