Allen Pierleoni apierleoni@sacbee.com Lasagna at Morgan's in the Sheraton Grand Hotel.

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Counter Culture: After a year of casual lunches, 10 stand out

Published: Friday, Dec. 30, 2011 - 12:00 am | Page 32TICKET

With another year's adventures in casual dining under the belt, so to speak, here's a totally subjective list of the 10 places my lunch pals and I especially liked in 2011, in order of preference.

This column's agenda is to find diverse, mostly family-run places that offer recommendable dishes at fair prices, and bring them to readers' attention. Most of our destinations are local, but because Sacramentans love to travel, we occasionally hit the road. Sometimes our lunch outings take us to fairly high-end places, which can be a challenge for them and us. So far, we've not been asked to leave.

1. Morgan's at the Sheraton Grand Hotel, 1230 J St., Sacramento; (916) 341-4100, www.sheraton.com

Chef Russell Michel's passion is farm-to-table ingredients, and shows with imaginative, from-scratch creations.

What's good: All the soups, pulled pork with prickly pear cactus, seared scallops over Dungeness crab risotto, salmon burger, lasagna Bolognese, grilled cheese and prosciutto sandwich. Don't overlook Sunday brunch.

2. West Shore Cafe, 5160 West Lake Blvd., Homewood; (530) 525-5200, www.westshorecafe.com

Like most restaurants around Lake Tahoe, this handsome hideout has days and hours subject to season. Right now, lunch is served only on weekends.

What's good: The view of the lake. Food-wise: Dungeness crab bruschetta, crab and corn fritters, lobster roll, tempura mushrooms, grilled portobello and roasted red pepper melt, buttermilk-soaked fried chicken.

3. Maranello, 8928 Sunset Ave., Fair Oaks; (916) 241-9365, www.maranellorestaurant.com

We found one of the best from-scratch Sunday brunches around.

What's good: Dungeness crab cakes, Southern-fried chicken breast platter (it's huge), hazelnut buttermilk waffle with maple syrup, corned-beef hash.

4. Source, in the Quarry Ponds center, 5540 Douglas Blvd., Granite Bay; (916) 772-3900, www.sourcetapas.com

The menu of bold tapas (26 at last count) changes weekly, so part of the fun is the surprise.

What's good: Boquerones (Spanish anchovies) with butter beans, quail eggs and yuzu citrus zest, Dungeness crab "tater tots," prawn wontons with pineapple chutney, charcuterie plate.

5. Sampino's Towne Foods, 1607 F St., Sacramento; (916) 441-2372, www.sampinos.com

The family-run deli-market offers homemade Italian dishes. The house-cooked pork and beef roasts, whole turkeys and chickens are tops – if you can get past the sandwiches served on ciabatta rolls from Il Fornaio.

What's good: Penne pasta salad, lightly seared Calabrese sausage, fat meatballs with marinara sauce, pink roast beef and Swiss cheese with garlic aioli.

6. Carpe Vino, 1568 Lincoln Way, Auburn; (530) 823-0320, www.carpevinoauburn.com

The classy wine bar/wine shop/restaurant is in a building circa 1860. The bar menu serves as the lunch menu.

What's good: Steamed mussels, seared scallops, bone marrow, pork ribs, potato-and-cheese casserole, Amagaki persimmon salad, tasting plate of charcuterie, artisanal cheeses, olives and toasts.

7. Pita Kitchen, 2989 Arden Way, Sacramento; (916) 480-0560

Mediterranean cuisine is the speciality, "house-made" is the mantra. The "market" up front sells imported goods.

What's good: Shish kebab, vegetable plate, hummus, baba ghanoush (mashed and spiced eggplant), lamb with basmati rice, shwarma (marinated and sliced beef), crunchy falafel, baklava, juice drinks.

8. Petals and Pastries, Mission between Fourth and Fifth, Carmel; (831) 620-1400

The dog-friendly bakery-restaurant is charming, with piles of house-baked goods on offer.

What's good: breakfast sandwich (chive-flecked scrambled eggs, chicken-apple sausage and Swiss on a toasted English muffin), quiche, thick-cut bacon, chicken salad (celery, currants, curry, spiced pecans, mango chutney), mac 'n' cheese with panko topping.

9. Simon's Bar & Cafe, 1415 16th St., Sacramento; (916) 442-7668

Simon's wouldn't be out of place as a beloved relic in San Francisco's Chinatown.

What's good: Pork-and-cabbage potstickers, chef's special chow mein, hot and spicy calamari salad (forget the salad part and focus on the garlicky squid), juicy brandy fried chicken.

10. Español, 5723 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento; (916) 457-1936

In a fast-changing, frenetic restaurant world, it's almost a relief to find a place that's deliberately stuck in time. "The Italian restaurant with a Spanish name" is nearing age 90.

What's good: Daily specials (roast turkey, veal stew, tortellini, corned beef, meatloaf, lasagna), ravioli, spaghetti and meatballs, chicken Parmesan, butter-sautéed penne with Parmesan.

© Copyright The Sacramento Bee. All rights reserved.


Call The Bee's Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128.

Read more articles by Allen Pierleoni



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