Republicans talk about taking a bite out of government, but we (Bee Capitol Bureau reporters Torey Van Oot and Jon Ortiz) have actually done it. With guests in tow, we sampled the lunch fare at state building eateries in downtown Sacramento over the past two months and posted a series of mini reviews on sacbee.com blogs Capitol Alert and The State Worker.

We gobbled down everything from hamburgers and Salisbury steak to veggie calzone and noodles with beef at spots selected from reader recommendations.

Our boss, Capitol Bureau chief Dan Smith, tried to help out and visited one place on a dare. Dave's Deli in the Employment Development Department building on Capitol Mall received just a one-spork rating out of five possible. The business closed Dec. 30. EDD said it wasn't because of the unfavorable criticism.

Here are some samples of our findings:

The Plaza Café

CalPERS, 400 P St.

The reviewers: Ortiz, CalPERS board member J.J. Jelincic and Jim Zamora, spokesman for SEIU Local 1000.

Tidbit: A partnership between former basketball star Magic Johnson and food-service firm Sodexo Inc. operates Plaza Café.

The good: This isn't your dad's old state government chow line. Plaza Café's atmosphere is open and bright, and the food's sophistication is surprising. Word is that the soups are terrific, especially the butternut, corn and coconut chowder. Regulars also raved about the blueberry pancakes with ricotta cheese recently offered for breakfast. The sampled lunches received high marks, too, for the most part. J.J. said the meat in his sandwich was "awesome," tender and tasty. His fries were done to his liking, with a nice exterior crunch and a warm, chewy center. Jim's plum crostoni had a nice blend of the sweet fruit and the garlicky cheese. Jon's calzone was enormous, nearly covering his 9-inch paper plate.

The bad: J.J. wished the bread on his grilled sandwich had been a little crispier. Jim wanted some crunch on his crostoni, too. He suspected that even though the bread bore panini grill marks from its preparation, it was softened by the cheese and refrigeration. The calzone was an unadventurous mountain of crust packed with ricotta, asparagus, spinach and an unsatisfying smudge of bland tomato sauce.

Grade: 4.5 sporks out of 5.

Café 744

California Department of Social Services, 744 P St.

The reviewers: Torey Van Oot and Derek Lennox, staff member for Assemblyman Cameron Smyth, R-Santa Clarita.

Tidbit: Great outdoor seating in good weather.

The good: In the mood for dining al fresco without Ambrosia's crowds? Cafe 744 features a spacious patio for diners looking to spend their lunch break getting some fresh air. The prices are hard to beat, especially compared with forking over $8 or more for a sandwich at any number of nearby restaurants. Bacon makes a cameo in several of the sandwich and burger combos and can be added to the build-your-own sandwiches at no cost (always a plus in our book).

The bad: The wait for our sandwiches seemed long, even though there wasn't much of a line the day we visited. The walk can be tough if you're in a rush, so we suggest heading here on a day when you have time to enjoy a stroll and some sun.

The grade: 4 out of 5 sporks

Gold Rush Grille

Secretary of State building, 1500 11th St. (2nd floor)

The reviewers: Van Oot, Ortiz and Roman Porter, former executive director of the Fair Political Practices Commission

Tidbit: Gold Rush Grille's patio overlooks a courtyard that Gov. Jerry Brown recently used to host a children's fitness event.

The good: French fries don't get much better than this. Crunch on the outside, tender on the inside. Make our mouths water just thinking about them. … The grilled sourdough bread for Jon's sandwich was buttery and browned to perfection. The combination of made-to-order grill items and daily specials presents plenty of options for diners looking for something besides your typical turkey sandwich. The location is super convenient. We ate at one of several tables on a balcony overlooking the building's courtyard, and the wrap-around windows inside let in lots of natural light, giving the dining area an atriumlike feel.

The bad: Besides the fries and sandwich bread, Gold Rush didn't exactly strike gold with the rest of our food. Jon's beef was rubbery and the barbecue sauce was bland. The wrap was also lacking in flavor and a bit mushy thanks to the cream cheese. Our guest reported that his pasta dish was just like his mom used to make. He wouldn't say whether that was good or bad. We'll take it as leaning toward the latter.

The grade: 2.5 out of 5 sporks.

Side Bar Café

Department of Justice, 1300 I St.

The reviewers: Bee reporters Van Oot and Kevin Yamamura and Department of Justice spokeswoman Lynda Gledhill.

Tidbit: Side Bar patrons order and pay at the cash register first, then go pick up food and drink at the grill counter.

The good: The focaccia sandwich had a good amount of flavor, thanks in part to the sauce and buttery, toasted bread. The cheeseburger was nothing special (and could have used a toasted bun), but was pretty good for the price. "Better than McDonald's," since it actually tasted fresh. There was no line and the service was quick, with all three plates coming up within a matter of minutes. We'll have to head back sometime for the Mexican food, which is apparently Side Bar's specialty.

The bad: Kevin's plate of beef and noodles "wasn't particularly palatable." In fact, he said the best part of his meal was the fries he ate off his dining companions' plates. While the fries were well seasoned, they would have benefited from some extra crunch. We didn't need an afternoon caffeine fix just yet, but word among morning customers is that the coffee leaves much to be desired .

The grade: 2.5 out of 5 sporks.

Capitol Coffee

Capitol Building, 1303 10th St. (basement)

The reviewers: Van Oot, Ortiz and Sen. Bob Dutton, R-Rancho Cucamonga

Tidbit: Coffee Club card holders get their ninth beverage free and can qualify for a monthly prize drawing.

The good: You can sum Capitol Coffee up in a word: value. The coffees are killer but without the killer prices normally endured with designer drinks. The size of the hot dog was a surprise: "A foot-long that's actually 12 inches long," Jon said, making it a good value. The senator is a big fan of the Polish sausage.

The bad: The hot dog was big and tasty, but Jon would have liked it better with onions. The shop's condiment selection is limited to packaged ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise and relish. The frappe had great flavor, but it wasn't thoroughly blended. When the drink was drained, two large ice cubes were stranded in the bottom of the cup.

Grade: 3 out of 5 sporks.

Griselda's World Café

Capitol Building, 1303 10th St. (basement)

The reviewers: Van Oot and Ortiz

Tidbit: The operation is owned by Sacramento Tex-Mex maven Griselda Barajas.

The good: Griselda's has successfully taken Tex-Mex to the state buffet line. A frequent customer at Griselda's told me that the pozole (a Mexican stew offered only on Mondays) is terrific. Ditto for the great greasy-spoon breakfast burritos. Torey was pleased with the amount of food on her plate: "Good portions but not monster size." The carnitas was tender, moist and "very spicy," she said. Jon's burrito was about as big as his two fists, and the carnitas virtually melted in his mouth. Spicy? You betcha, but not the sweat-inducing spicy that can make you wish you could disconnect your tongue.

The bad: Torey's rice was dry and the beans, she said, "weren't great ... but I'm not a bean fan." The food service can bog down, since the buffet line is in a fairly narrow space that can't accommodate more than a handful of customers before it clogs. And during the legislative off-season Griselda shortens the menu, so the place looks barren, with empty service counters and display cases that create a stark feel.

Grade: 3.5 out of 5 sporks.

Food service facts

State government departments contract for their office building food services, some through the federal Business Enterprises Program for the Blind.

A 1936 law launched the program to provide people who are legally blind a chance to operate cafeterias, snack bars and vending machines after training in various aspects of the business.

California's Department of Rehabilitation administers the program for the state, including 16 contracts in the Sacramento area.

Here are some of the state buildings in downtown Sacramento that feature cafeterias and snack shops (other addresses included in the reviews). All are open to the public:

• The California Energy Commission

1516 Ninth St.

• Sacramento County Court Building

720 Ninth St.

• Gregory Bateson Building

1600 Ninth St.

• Caltrans

1820 Alhambra Blvd.

• Board of Equalization

450 N St.

• Natural Resources Agency

1416 Ninth St.

• East End Complex

1629 Capitol Ave.

• Board of Equalization

450 N St.

• Department of Rehabilitation

721 Capitol Mall

• California EPA

1001 I St.

• Department of Social Services

744 P St.

Best ...

Menu selection: CalPERS' Plaza Café

Place to relax at lunch: Plaza Café's patio

Prices: Capitol Coffee

Portions: Gold Rush Grille

Service: Side Bar Cafe

Worst ...

Service: Griselda's World Café

Parking: CalPERS' Plaza Café

Menu selection (when the Legislature is out of session): Griselda's World Café

Prices: CalPERS' Plaza Café

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Call Jon Ortiz, Bee Capitol Bureau, (916) 321-1043.