Pity the poor pickled beet; its mere mention triggers giggles. And chard – doesn't that belong in Switzerland?

Responsible for countless pink stains and a centuries-old identity crisis, beets and chard seem like an odd couple, but they're actually made for each other. Heck, they're two ends of the same vegetable, available now in a rainbow of colors.

Regardless of name, they share deep Mediterranean roots. They're found in French, Italian and Arab cuisine. Naturally, California chefs – looking for seasonal options in our Mediterranean climate – gravitated to these once-neglected winter veggies, too.

"People want two things – flavor and texture," said chef David English of Sacramento's Press Bistro. "When roasted, beets have great texture and, like all root vegetables, a sweet earth-iness. Beets take on flavor really well, too.

"They're really versatile," he added. "You can use them in salads, they make great soup or serve alongside salmon – that's a wonderful combination in winter."

Interest in healthier eating initially spurred this refound love of beets and chard. Dr. Jonny Bowden, author of "The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth" (Fair Winds Press, $24.99, 360 pages), ranked beets first and chard No. 3 on his Top 10 list of "the best foods you aren't eating." (Red cabbage was No. 2.)

Think of beets as "red spinach," he told the New York Times, with similar healthy attributes. Chard is even better for you.

"You can add chard to almost anything," said Suzanne Ashworth of Del Rio Botanical in West Sacramento, which grows organic gourmet vegetables for many area restaurants and home cooks. "It enhances everything, with lots of vitamins and minerals and virtually no calories."

The Food Channel predicted that the rise of root vegetables would be a major menu trend for 2011, and chefs didn't disappoint. At Sacramento restaurants that showcase in-season vegetables, roasted beets became as ubiquitous as baked potatoes.

For example, Taste in Plymouth serves homemade borscht (the classic beet and beef soup) and a risotto-like Umbrian farro (an ancient Italian grain) featuring beet timbale and beet chips.

As for chard, it's the new spinach. At Press Bistro, find it next to pork chops, alongside fish or tucked inside Greek feta pie. Popeye never had it so good.

"Anything you can do with spinach, you can make with chard, but get more out of it," said English, who also likes chard paired with sweet potato purée. "It's quick and tastes better. It has more texture and more flavor, too."

Chefs prefer the gold or butter chard; the latter has a narrow white stem, Ashworth said. "The red-stemmed variety will bleed, which is OK with a brown sauce but not so good with a light-colored sauce."

Although he uses all colors of both veggies, English prefers gold beets to red. "I think the gold are a little sweeter. I'm not that fond of pink or (striped) beets."

The gold variety also avoids that pesky beet problem; they don't bleed red.

"If you don't want everything to turn pink, use the gold," English said. "But in some recipes like borscht, you want that rich red color."

Not everyone is down with beets – no matter their nutritional assets. First lady Michelle Obama, a major proponent of healthier eating, confided that she hates beets.

"Neither the president nor I have the beet gene," she told the Ladies Home Journal shortly after the Obamas moved into the White House.

But chefs have found ways to convert even beet haters into at least likers by mixing them with other root vegetables such as parsnips, carrots or turnips. Roasting brings out beets' natural sweetness.

Even pickled beets get a gourmet tweak.

"I like them marinated with cherry vinegar, olive oil and a little salt," English said. "That makes a great salad. Sprinkle on some feta and it's wonderful."

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