Makes 24 crumpets

A cousin to the English muffin, a crumpet uses yeast and baking soda to prompt fermentation, which helps create its characteristic holes.

Baked on a griddle with a metal ring similar to ones used for English muffins, a crumpet is like a thick pancake. One side will have an almost-crisp crust, the second an array of craters.

You need not split it to eat. Rather, slather with butter, clotted cream or jam, or drizzle with honey.

Adapted from "Simply Great Breads" by Daniel Leader (Tauton Press, $22, 160 pages).

Metal rings about 4 inches across and 1 inch deep called English muffin or crumpet rings are available at cookware stores or kingarthurflour.com.

Finished crumpets may be frozen up to one month. Defrost on countertop. To serve, reheat 5 minutes in a 350-degree oven.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups room temperature water (70 to 78 degrees), plus more if necessary

2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet) instant yeast

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 2/3 cups flour

2 cups bread flour

3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

2 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt or kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

2/3 cup room-temperature milk

INSTRUCTIONS

Whisk together 2 cups water, yeast and sugar in a medium bowl; let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Put flours, cream of tartar and salt in bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Stir to combine. Pour in yeast mixture; mix on low speed to combine.

Cover bowl with plastic wrap; let stand at room temperature, 1 1/2 hours.

Dissolve baking soda in milk. Pour into bowl with the batter; stir to combine. Batter should be the consistency of pancake batter. If it's too stiff, crumpets won't have enough bubbles and holes. If necessary, add more water, a tablespoon at a time to reach the right consistency. (You may need as much as 1/3 to 1/2 cup.)

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Grease 4-inch crumpet rings with butter; place in skillet. Pour batter into each ring to three-quarters full. Cook until holes begin to form on surface, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove rings, flip crumpets; cook until nicely toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with butter.

Per serving: 78 calories, 5 percent of calories from fat, 0.4 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 230 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

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