Owen Brewer / Bee file

A dry rosé goes well with spicy seafood dishes such as classic San Francisco cioppino.

0 comments | Print

Make Sunday a Seafood Bowl, complemented by good wine

Published: Wednesday, Jan. 30, 2013 - 12:00 am | Page 3D

Hooray! It's going to be a Seafood Super Bowl. San Francisco vs. Baltimore. Cioppino vs. Chesapeake Bay blue crab. The signature foods of the two cities will be as exciting as the game. Maybe even as exciting as the TV ads.

For an indoor tailgate party at home during the game, it would only be appropriate to serve the favorite foods of our favorite teams.

And, of course, we will need some fabulous wine matches.

Oh, and the game will be played in New Orleans – the home of Cajun cooking and another super seafood city.

Let's start with San Francisco, where the signature dish is cioppino, the fragrant seafood stew created during the Gold Rush by immigrant Italian fishermen seeking to use their catch. Imagine big pieces of Dungeness crab, rock cod, mussels, shrimp, calamari and whatever else is at hand in a light and flavorful broth of tomato, onion, garlic, olive oil, wine, saffron and marjoram, with fist-sized chunks of sourdough bread to sop up the juices.

The wine for this? Rosé. Not a sugar-heavy, Kool-Aid-clone blush wine, but an intensely fruity, bone-dry, tart-finishing extra crisp rosé.

• 2010 Bonterra Rose, Mendocino County (45 percent sangiovese, 26 percent zinfandel, 15 percent carignane, 9 percent grenache): crisp, dry and lively, with aromas and flavors of tart strawberries and spice; $14.

In Baltimore, the signature dish is the much-prized blue crab of Chesapeake Bay – steamed in beer, drenched in butter and served on a table covered with old newspapers and a wooden mallet to crack the shell.

Or maybe it's the Maryland crab cake, made with big lumps of those blue crabs held together by mayo, Dijon mustard, egg and lemon juice.

With either dish, the signature spice would be Baltimore's savory, potent, classic Old Bay Seasoning, with its celery salt, paprika and, some say, everything from bay leaves to cardamom.

The wine? A juicy, mouth-watering albarino, the delicate, floral wine the Galicians of northwest Spain drink with octopus and garlic eels from the chilly North Atlantic Ocean.

• 2011 Lo Nuevo "Covello" Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain: floral aromas, light body, extra-crisp, with flavors of ripe peaches and a dry finish; $15.

Finally, since the Super Bowl will be in New Orleans this year, we might copy a signature dish from K Paul's Louisiana Kitchen there, with its genius chef Paul Prodhomme. Maybe the famous blackened fish – dredged in butter and the chef's famous seasoning mix of black pepper, white pepper, cayenne pepper, paprika, onion, garlic, thyme and oregano and seared in a super-hot cast-iron pan.

What wine would handle that? I'd suggest Conundrum, a rich, multigrape white blend with a hint of sweetness to handle the heat.

• 2011 Conundrum White Wine, by Caymus Vineyards, California (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, muscat canelli, viognier and semillon): exotic, full-bodied and complex, with aromas of lavender and honeysuckle and flavors of ripe peaches, spice, vanilla and apples; $22.

© Copyright The Sacramento Bee. All rights reserved.

Read more articles by Fred Tasker



About Comments

Reader comments on Sacbee.com are the opinions of the writer, not The Sacramento Bee. If you see an objectionable comment, click the "Report Abuse" link below it. We will delete comments containing inappropriate links, obscenities, hate speech, and personal attacks. Flagrant or repeat violators will be banned. See more about comments here.

What You Should Know About Comments on Sacbee.com

Sacbee.com is happy to provide a forum for reader interaction, discussion, feedback and reaction to our stories. However, we reserve the right to delete inappropriate comments or ban users who can't play nice. (See our full terms of service here.)

Here are some rules of the road:

• Keep your comments civil. Don't insult one another or the subjects of our articles. If you think a comment violates our guidelines click the "Report Abuse" link to notify the moderators. Responding to the comment will only encourage bad behavior.

• Don't use profanities, vulgarities or hate speech. This is a general interest news site. Sometimes, there are children present. Don't say anything in a way you wouldn't want your own child to hear.

• Do not attack other users; focus your comments on issues, not individuals.

• Stay on topic. Only post comments relevant to the article at hand.

• Do not copy and paste outside material into the comment box.

• Don't repeat the same comment over and over. We heard you the first time.

• Do not use the commenting system for advertising. That's spam and it isn't allowed.

• Don't use all capital letters. That's akin to yelling and not appreciated by the audience.

• Don't flag other users' comments just because you don't agree with their point of view. Please only flag comments that violate these guidelines.

You should also know that The Sacramento Bee does not screen comments before they are posted. You are more likely to see inappropriate comments before our staff does, so we ask that you click the "Report Abuse" link to submit those comments for moderator review. You also may notify us via email at feedback@sacbee.com. Note the headline on which the comment is made and tell us the profile name of the user who made the comment. Remember, comment moderation is subjective. You may find some material objectionable that we won't and vice versa.

If you submit a comment, the user name of your account will appear along with it. Users cannot remove their own comments once they have submitted them.

hide comments
Sacramento Bee Job listing powered by Careerbuilder.com
Quick Job Search
Buy
Used Cars
Dealer and private-party ads
Make:

Model:

Price Range:
to
Search within:
miles of ZIP

Advanced Search | 1982 & Older



Find 'n' Save Daily DealGet the Deal!

Local Deals