Enotria names new general manager

Published: Wednesday, May. 15, 2013 - 12:00 am | Page 7D
Last Modified: Wednesday, May. 15, 2013 - 8:05 am

Over the past nine months, Enotria Restaurant and Wine Bar has made a name for itself as a great dining destination, complete with artfully created food, polished service and a vast wine list.

But the restaurant has also seen more than its share of growing pains and personnel changes under the leadership of its dynamic and exacting executive chef, Pajo Bruich, notably the recent hiring – and then hasty departure – of general manager Anani Lawson, whose pedigree included stints as sommelier at two Thomas Keller restaurants, the French Laundry and Per Se.

Earlier this month, Enotria hired a new general manager, Jenny Yun, whose assignment will be to bring the right balance of excellence and casual fun to the dining room while providing a sense of stability and cohesiveness to what may be Sacramento's most exciting restaurant.

"I think it was meant to be that I was to meet Chef (Bruich) and come to Sacramento," Yun said. "We're both focused, we're passionate and we love what we do."

Bruich first learned of Yun through Lawson. Yun worked as a concierge at Per Se, a Michelin three-star restaurant that many consider the best in New York City. Yun lived in the Big Apple for 12 years, arriving to pursue a career in fashion design only to discover that her true passion was in the hospitality industry.

She went on to work at Meadowood in St. Helena, which also earned three Michelin stars.

Turns out, Yun and Bruich realized they shared a similar vision for Enotria and decided to work together. Yun began as a consultant earlier this year, then decided to work full time as general manager.

She didn't reveal too many details about how she would take Enotria's already-polished service to new heights, saying only that "my work ethic is strong and I have extremely high expectations."

Asked if changing service standards could make Enotria appear too stiff and fussy, Yun said: "One thing I love about Enotria is everybody is really real. They don't try to put on airs. There's no smoke and mirrors. They are who they are."

Bruich also announced a modification in the restaurant's menu. For the past two months, the dining room had been limited to a chef's tasting menu, meaning guests would have to indulge in a multicourse dinner at a fixed price, and the a la carte offerings were limited to the wine bar.

Bruich said Enotria would now allow diners throughout the restaurant to order a la carte or opt for a tasting menu.

Call The Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099. Follow him on Twitter @Blarob.

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