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Allen Pierleoni / apierleoni

A three-egg omelet is stuffed with goodies — along with sides of bacon and sourdough toast — at the Sutter Street Grill in Old Folsom.

Eggy avalanches at Sutter Street Grill

Published: Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2013 - 1:53 pm

There are plenty of calm, well-orchestrated breakfast experiences at restaurants around town. In other words: without much character. The menus are predictable, portions are adequate, the servers lack a sense of urgency, the patrons chat quietly, the children at the neighboring tables are well-behaved.

Then there’s the Sutter Street Grill, whose motto is “Good Ol’ Home Cookin’” and whose vibe reflects the high energy and edge of the Old Folsom of once upon a time — raucous, bountiful and unabashed. Somehow, the restaurant staff manages to create order out of what at first look appears to be chaos, or something close to it.

Lunch is fine (burgers, French dip, Italian sausage sandwich), but the specialty is the belly-busting breakfasts — pork tenderloin and eggs, Belgian waffle, outstanding French toast, scrambles, chicken fried steak, flapjacks, homemade biscuits and gravy, omelets and more. The kitchen understands the concept of thick-cut “crisp bacon.”

We sat at the counter last Saturday morning, listening to the din and scanning the eclectic crowd of diners. That could be Gabby Hayes sitting over there, or maybe a gold miner taking a break from his claim up in Hangtown.

Coffee cups were constantly refilled, tables quickly bused, menus handed out with a flourish, servers scribbled orders in their ticket books, forks and knives moved in a blur of plate-to-mouth. Welcome to what breakfast should be.

We were undecided whether to split the No. 19 — a three-egg omelet with avocado, mushrooms, spinach and jack cheese with hashbrowns, thick sourdough toast and a side of bacon (pictured) — or the Jailhouse — six slices of bacon, two links of sausage or a slab of ham, two eggs, potatoes and a biscuit with gravy.

In the end, we ordered both. Then we went to the gym.

Sutter Street Grill, 811 Sutter St., Folsom; (916) 985-4323, Hours: 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 7 a.m.-2 p.m. weekends.

Call The Bee’s Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128. Follow him on Twitter @apierleonisacbe

Read more articles by Allen Pierleoni

About Appetizers

Chris Macias has served as The Sacramento Bee's Food & Wine writer since 2008. His writing adventures have ranged from the kitchen at French Laundry to helping pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes with migrant farm workers in Lodi. Chris also judges regularly at food, wine and cocktail competitions around Northern California. His profile of a former gangbanger-turned-pastry-chef was included in Da Capo's "Best Food Writing 2012."

Read his Wine Buzz columns here
(916) 321-1253
Twitter: @chris_macias

Allen Pierleoni writes about casual lunchtime restaurants in The Sacramento Bee's weekly "Counter Culture" column. He covers a broad range of topics, including food, travel, books and authors. In addition to writing the weekly column "Between the Lines," he oversees the Sacramento Bee Book Club, in which well-known authors give free presentations to the public.

Read his Counter Culture reviews here
(916) 321-1128
Twitter: @apierleonisacbe

Blair Anthony Robertson is The Sacramento Bee's food critic.

Read his restaurant reviews here
(916) 321-1099
Twitter: @Blarob

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Note: The Appetizers blog switched blog platforms in August 2013. All posts after the switch are found here. Older posts are available using the list below.

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