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Allen Pierleoni /

The rosemary pizza bread from Masullo Pizza is sold exclusively at Taylor’s Market.

Rosemary bread from Masullo Pizza is a slice of heaven

Published: Tuesday, Nov. 12, 2013 - 10:52 am

Perhaps the late iconic chef James Beard said it best: “Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” He would know, having written 20 cookbooks and, along with Julia Child, having de-mystified French cuisine for America’s home cooks.

The retail bread market is a multibillion-dollar business in this country, and tearing off a chunk of that loaf are a growing number of specialty bakeries producing more artisanal breads than ever. Our local go-to’s for those include Les Baux (5090 Folsom Blvd., 916-739-1348;, Grateful Bread (2543 Fair Oaks Blvd., 916-487-9179) and the Bread Store (1716 J St., 916-557-1600).

Recently we discovered the excellent stone-baked pizza bread cooked in the wood-fired pizza ovens by Robert Masullo and his staff at Masullo Pizza (2711 Riverside Blvd., 916-443-8929; Right now, it’s sold exclusively at Taylor’s Market (2900 Freeport Blvd., 916-443-6881;

Masullo shapes the focaccia-like loaves from pizza dough, baking them at high heat for about two minutes and delivering them to Taylor’s between noonish and 1:30ish p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. They’re seasoned with rosemary, olive oil and salt, and are fragrant, chewy and slightly charred ($2.99 each). If you appreciate good bread, you’ll love this.

“Some customers take it home and put pizza toppings on it,” said Taylor’s market co-owner Danny Johnson (with wife Kathy).

How does it sell?

“Out,” said Johnson.

Does Masullo have plans to expand distribution?

“We’ve been talking to the Natural Foods Co-op and they seem interested,” he said. “It’s in evolution right now, but it probably won’t get too much bigger than that, given the physical limitations of our space. We’ll do the best to meet the demand, but I don’t want to compromise what we’re doing at the pizzeria.”

Meanwhile, you can taste the bread at the restaurant, as it’s served with the salads.

Call The Bee’s Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128. Follow him on Twitter @apierleonisacbe

Read more articles by Allen Pierleoni

About Appetizers

Chris Macias has served as The Sacramento Bee's Food & Wine writer since 2008. His writing adventures have ranged from the kitchen at French Laundry to helping pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes with migrant farm workers in Lodi. Chris also judges regularly at food, wine and cocktail competitions around Northern California. His profile of a former gangbanger-turned-pastry-chef was included in Da Capo's "Best Food Writing 2012."

Read his Wine Buzz columns here
(916) 321-1253
Twitter: @chris_macias

Allen Pierleoni writes about casual lunchtime restaurants in The Sacramento Bee's weekly "Counter Culture" column. He covers a broad range of topics, including food, travel, books and authors. In addition to writing the weekly column "Between the Lines," he oversees the Sacramento Bee Book Club, in which well-known authors give free presentations to the public.

Read his Counter Culture reviews here
(916) 321-1128
Twitter: @apierleonisacbe

Blair Anthony Robertson is The Sacramento Bee's food critic.

Read his restaurant reviews here
(916) 321-1099
Twitter: @Blarob

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Note: The Appetizers blog switched blog platforms in August 2013. All posts after the switch are found here. Older posts are available using the list below.

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