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  • Bee staff

    Chef Michael Thiemann, formerly of Ella, is close to opening Mother

  • Bee staff.

    This photo was taken a day or so before the custom countertop was installed.

  • Bee staff.

    Some serious cooking equipment has just been installed at Mother.

  • Bee staff.

    Chef/owner Michael Thiemann, left, hired Matt Macera as co-executive chef.

Highly anticipated Mother set to open on K Street

Published: Monday, Jan. 6, 2014 - 4:01 pm

Michael Thiemann and company are within days of opening Mother, the vegetarian restaurant on K Street that has already whetted appetites and wowed devotees during a series of pop-up dinners in recent weeks.

Thiemann, the well-traveled former chef at the 4-star Ella Dining Room and Bar in Sacramento and the Tyler Florence Restaurant Group in the Bay Area, can definitely cook. It actually seems misleading, if not unfair, to refer to this soon-to-open restaurant at 1023 K St. as “vegetarian,” what with all the connotations that brings up. A better description would be a restaurant that celebrates vegetables without featuring meat, for this is not about food politics. It’s about how a kitchen seeks to do great food that reflects and defines the local culinary and agricultural landscapes.

“One of the things I kept on saying early on is let’s not put ‘vegetarian’ on anything we say because it does have a stigma to it, even though I’m proud to serve entirely vegetarian. The whole restaurant here, we’re all meat eaters,” Thiemann told me recently by phone.

If I’m halfway right about Mother, it could soon be the kind of restaurant that not only delights and entertains customers but does so in a very special, very Sacramento way — and without apology. This is a new era on the food scene, one when talented chefs return to a place called home and have the chutzpah to make a go of it without any sense they are inferior to what’s kicking in San Francisco or the Napa Valley. Thiemann is one of those chefs — confident, ambitious, sincere, proud of his hometown and, best of all, he really appreciates the bounty of the Sacramento region.

There’s already plenty of buzz about this place. I asked about it on Twitter this morning.

Despite the nickname that won’t go away, Sacramento is not a cowtown. It’s a vegetable town. It’s tomatoes and peppers and asparagus. It’s leafy greens and microgreens. It’s squash and carrots and potatoes and rice in common and heritage varieties.

It’s about growers collaborating with purveyors like Jim Mills of Produce Express to take, say, corn and mill it into organic polenta and grits. It’s about boutique growers like Suzanne Ashworth and Heidi Watanabe working with chefs.

And it’s about all the best chefs demanding more produce — and more interesting, more dynamic and unusual kinds of produce — to create flavors that excite our palates and soothe our souls.

Based on Thiemann’s track record and his vision for Mother, the food is going to feature combinations that are both startlingly new and refreshingly simple to create dishes that express the best of what the ingredients are supposed to be. Some will be robust. Some will emphasize finesse. And some will be all about restraint.

T

his will be a new and different vegetarian restaurant. If you associate vegetarian with sacrifice or a political viewpoint or tofu shaped like chicken wings or salmon steaks — or a just a mindnumbing absence of creativity — Mother is not that place.

Based on the many dishes I tried during the round of pop-up dinners at Old Ironsides — and based on the enthusiam Thiemann’s food appears to inspire — the only problem Mother is going to face once it opens is crowd control and chaos.

So, when will it open? Restaurants never open on time, but Thiemann insists Mother will be cooking and serving by Jan. 20 and possibly sooner.

The restaurant right now is awash in activity —the wood floors are down, the custom seating is in place, the eye-catching butcher block countertops were just installed. The massive hood, the serious range and an industrial-sized stand mixer are all on site and ready to fire.

A mixer with that kind of muscle suggests pastries and breads, and it turns out, Mother is going to showcase those. Thiemann has hired Matt Masera, 27, and given him the title co-exeutive chef. Masera’s background is largely in pastry, but Thiemann says he is an all-around talent who will do exciting things with the savory side of menu, too. Masera grew up in El Dorado Hills and cut his teeth at the former Masque Ristorante. Among other things, Masera will oversee the ambitious line-up of fresh-baked breads, flatbreads and pastries.

“He’s a young kid. He’s super creative,” said Thiemann, who has worked with Masera at four restaurants. “He and I will be tied at the hip. He’ll make me better. He’ll make Mother more interesting.”

We will be covering this opening closely and will have more to share soon. Thiemann, his wife, Lisa, and business partners (including Crest Theatre owner Robert Emerick and photographer Ryan Donahue) are also opening Empress, a 160-seat tavern in a space directly below Mother.

Of Mother, Thiemann says, “We’re inherently going to be meatless and there will be a debate about what that means. We’re going to try and be vegan as much as possible. It’s more challenging. This whole restaurant is about being challenging and doing something that hasn’t been done.”

That’s some serious talk. But this is a chef who knows how to back it up.

As for Empress, Thiemann takes a deep breath and says, “It will be base off a giant rotisserie and whatever I can dream up and cook on this spit.” If you’re wondering: Yes, there will be plenty of meat.

Expect construction to begin on Empress in March or April.

To read my take on the pop-up dinners, click here.


Call The Bee’s Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099. Follow him on Twitter @Blarob.

Read more articles by Blair Anthony Robertson



About Appetizers

Chris Macias has served as The Sacramento Bee's Food & Wine writer since 2008. His writing adventures have ranged from the kitchen at French Laundry to helping pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes with migrant farm workers in Lodi. Chris also judges regularly at food, wine and cocktail competitions around Northern California. His profile of a former gangbanger-turned-pastry-chef was included in Da Capo's "Best Food Writing 2012."

Read his Wine Buzz columns here
cmacias@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1253
Twitter: @chris_macias

Allen Pierleoni writes about casual lunchtime restaurants in The Sacramento Bee's weekly "Counter Culture" column. He covers a broad range of topics, including food, travel, books and authors. In addition to writing the weekly column "Between the Lines," he oversees the Sacramento Bee Book Club, in which well-known authors give free presentations to the public.

Read his Counter Culture reviews here
apierleoni@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1128
Twitter: @apierleonisacbe

Blair Anthony Robertson is The Sacramento Bee's food critic.

Read his restaurant reviews here
brobertson@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1099
Twitter: @Blarob


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Note: The Appetizers blog switched blog platforms in August 2013. All posts after the switch are found here. Older posts are available using the list below.

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