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Mother is featuring three kinds of Dutch babies, a pancake/souffle kind of dish.

Eye openers: Mother rolls out weekend brunch menu

Published: Friday, Apr. 11, 2014 - 12:38 pm
Last Modified: Tuesday, Sep. 30, 2014 - 12:27 pm

Mother, the hot new restaurant on K Street next to the Crest Theatre, rolled out its brunch menu last weekend for the first time.

Among other things, the restaurant is featuring three kinds of Dutch babies, a pancake/souffle kind of dish delivered to the table in a piping hot cast-iron pan. I haven’t seen a Dutch baby served at other local restaurants in recent years. But after tasting both a sweet and savory version at Mother, you’d have to think they are going to catch on elsewhere. Mother is on the verge of making these a quintessential brunch staple.

You’ve probably already noticed that brunch itself is already a big deal in Sacramento. With Mother throwing its hat into the ring, the quality has gotten even better, and the competition is intense.

Scores of restaurants are offering brunch and doing it well, including Hook & Ladder, Lowbrau, Capital Garage, The Porch, Red Rabbit, Orphan, and, of course, the eatery where the line is always long come Sunday a.m., Tower Cafe. On the other hand, a place where there is almost never a line but that serves a very good brunch is Bistro Michel. Throw in breakfast-y stalwarts like Harry’s Cafe, Cafe Bernardo, Crepeville and Chargin’s and Les Baux and we’ve got plenty of options.

At this point, I would say the head of the pack is Bacon & Butter, which is almost always packed on Sundays because owner/chef Billy Zoellin’s food is very Sacramento and very good. I would say the same for Magpie, and now, in a new and exciting way, Mother, which just happens to not serve meat.

Mother is cooking brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m to 2 p.m.

“We’ve always planned to open up for brunches on the weekends,” co-owner/chef Michael Thiemann said. “I think this place will be really fun on weekend days. Sacramento loves brunch. ... I think the menu is fun and approachable, executed with the same high standards as lunch and dinner. We have a few vegan items and are working on incorporating more, and of course, we will accommodate any request” – except a side of bacon!”

Watch for my full review of Mother on April 27.

Call The Bee’s Blair Anthony Robertson, (916) 321-1099. Follow him on Twitter @Blarob.

Read more articles by Blair Anthony Robertson

About Appetizers

Chris Macias has served as The Sacramento Bee's Food & Wine writer since 2008. His writing adventures have ranged from the kitchen at French Laundry to helping pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes with migrant farm workers in Lodi. Chris also judges regularly at food, wine and cocktail competitions around Northern California. His profile of a former gangbanger-turned-pastry-chef was included in Da Capo's "Best Food Writing 2012."

Read his Wine Buzz columns here
(916) 321-1253
Twitter: @chris_macias

Allen Pierleoni writes about casual lunchtime restaurants in The Sacramento Bee's weekly "Counter Culture" column. He covers a broad range of topics, including food, travel, books and authors. In addition to writing the weekly column "Between the Lines," he oversees the Sacramento Bee Book Club, in which well-known authors give free presentations to the public.

Read his Counter Culture reviews here
(916) 321-1128
Twitter: @apierleonisacbe

Blair Anthony Robertson is The Sacramento Bee's food critic.

Read his restaurant reviews here
(916) 321-1099
Twitter: @Blarob

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