John Trotter/ Special to The Bee

“Here’s the tortellini with the peas inside. The first peas of the season had finally come in, and there’s just a few pea shoots tossed in that Yocha Dehe olive oil. The plate epitomizes what we were looking for in the menu, to say, ‘Savoring Sacramento, a promise of spring.’ For us to bring this plate, which is in essence spring in Sacramento, and serve it in New York on a night which was miserable and rainy and 30 degrees, that was pretty cool.”

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