Sacramento’s finest food in the spotlightLoading
  • GJE2245HE.3Photographer
    “Here’s our little goodie bag. It had some information about “farm to fork,” and had an abalone shell because the first course was abalone. Growing up in New York, you never see abalone. You hear about it on TV but it never comes. So we wanted folks to have that. The Yocha Dehe, the Wintun Nation, was kind enough to give us olive oil bottles for everybody. There’s also a package of Old Soul coffee.”
    John Trotter | Special to the Bee
  • GJE2245HT.3Photographer
    “Delta asparagus, the bright pride of the Delta. There’ve been times when we said, ‘This is California asparagus,’ when we’d have to mumble under our breath ‘Baja,’ because that’s part of California. Truth is, because of the weather and the rain holding out for us, this actually comes from the Delta. By this point, the asparagus had probably been going for about a week.”
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245KH.3Photographer
    “This is Devin Goodearle. He’s our chef de cuisine/executive chef. We brought pasta sheets already made with us, and here you see him rolling out the sheets to make them thinner for the tortellini that had the pea filling. We made the mix by blanching peas a little bit, sweating down some green garlic and then mixing that together with ricotta and Fiscalini cheddar. The mix we actually made here (in Sacramento) and brought with us.”
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245IF.3Photographer
    “(Line cook) Casey Shideler is probably still having nightmares about having to peel quail eggs. It took a long time. They were fresh, and if you ever had to peel eggs when they’re a little older they’re easier to peel. These were not easy to peel. We brought about 170, and she did pretty good. We pickled them in soy sauce which gives them a cool salty flavor, but the umami is fabulous with the boiled quail egg.”
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245HO.3Photographer
    “Andrew Kingsbury (Mulvaney’s B&L manager) is coming through with the quail eggs. They went in the refrigerator for about an hour as they marinated and got the beautiful mahogany color on the outside. That’s what we call ‘Andrew face.’ He’s trying very hard not to spill anything.”
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • G9J22BNSG.1Photographer
    Devin Goodearle, chef de cuisine, prepares spring pea ravioli with green garlic and aged cheddar.
    John Trotter | John Trotter
  • GJE2245LJ.2Photographer
    “(Lead prep/pantry chef Valerie Beard) is standing in front of the line. She’s in front of the pork belly course, with Bledsoe’s pork belly, rice from Montna Farms, and the hatch chilies that Suzanne (Ashworth) grows for us at Del Rio. We made skhug, which is a traditionally Israeli accompaniment with garlic and coriander and a bit of the Meyer lemon.
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245M8.3Photographer
    “This is the beginning of the plating of the lamb. The fun part is getting to say: Get me a glass of the wine, try the lamb, try the lamb and the sauce. To see the look in (people’s) eyes when they really see where the marriage of flavor comes from, it’s a really good teaching moment.” Far right is the tortellini with spring peas.
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245L2.3Photographer
    “Here’s the tortellini with the peas inside. The first peas of the season had finally come in, and there’s just a few pea shoots tossed in that Yocha Dehe olive oil. The plate epitomizes what we were looking for in the menu, to say, ‘Savoring Sacramento, a promise of spring.’ For us to bring this plate, which is in essence spring in Sacramento, and serve it in New York on a night which was miserable and rainy and 30 degrees, that was pretty cool.”
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245JS.3Photographer
    “Traditionally, these are wine pairing dinners. Certainly we had plenty of great wine, but we wanted to honor the craft beer going on in Sacramento. We made the beer part of our appetizer course. So, we reached out to our friends at Ruhstaller, New Helvetia, Rubicon, Track 7 – and Sierra Nevada is here.” Far right, the stairway to the fourth floor private library where Beard’s friends dine.
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245O9.3Photographer
    “Here’s one of the servers (from the James Beard House). They do have a full-time staff that works these dinners. Most people when they go don’t bring front-of-house people. As much as I’m a kitchen guy, the B&L is one family and the meld is very important.” Far right, pastry chef Nena Rasul and executive chef Devin Goodearle with Mulvaney at the end of the meal.
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2245N0.3Photographer
    “This is the stairway to the fourth floor. On the fourth floor they have the ‘private library,’ which is pretty cool. It’s all friends of James Beard’s and people who have cooked in the house since then (dining in the library). It’s an impressive pantheon. This picture also gives you an impression of how small the house is.
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
  • GJE2249R3.3Photographer
    “This is the end of the meal, standing next to Devin, our executive chef, and Nena (Rasul), our pastry chef. To go and show people in New York how proud I am of my team – and how proud we are to be in Sacramento, and how proud of the farmers and the whole community here, and what we do with food – it was just a great night. A lot of people came up to me and said, ‘Thank you. This makes me proud to be from Sacramento.’ 
    John Trotter | Special to The Bee
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