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Allen Pierleoni / apierleoni@sacbee.com

Lamb curry, chicken tikka masala and saag paneer share a table with basmati rice and mango lassi drinks at Taj restaurant, which opened a month ago on Fair Oaks Boulevard in Carmichael.

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  • TAJ

    6400 Fair Oaks Blvd., Carmichael; (916) 971-0115

    Hours: A 10-item buffet for $7.49 is served 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, and 11:30-a.m.-3 p.m. weekends. Dinner is 5-9:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, and 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

First Impressions: Indian cuisine at Taj a welcome addition

Published: Wednesday, Jun. 25, 2014 - 10:59 pm

First Impressions visits dining spots in the region that are new or have undergone recent transitions. Have a candidate for First Impressions? Email us at taste@sacbee.com .

Above the buffet table inside the month-old Taj Indian restaurant is a mural depicting a traditional Sikh ceremony of costumed dancers and musicians. In the background is the Harmandir Sahib Golden Temple – for Sikhs, an iconic place of worship – built in the 1500s of white marble overlaid with gold leaf, and rebuilt in 1764. It’s in the town of Amritsar, the spiritual center of the Sikh religion, in the Punjab region of India.

It’s indicative of the heritage of Taj co-owners Bobby Singh and his cousin, Jay Masuta. It also speaks to a characteristic of the cuisine, which is specific to the Punjab – “spicy.” Some would say “hot.”

Singh owned Raj Indian Cuisine in Berkeley from 1993 to 2003 before moving to Sacramento to open a clothing business and grocery store.

How did he get back into the biz? “A really good cook I’ve known for a while called and said he was free, and I decided to look up (a space for) a restaurant,” Singh said. “One day my wife and I came here for dinner when it was the Sher-e-Punjab restaurant. After dinner, we were driving out of the parking lot when the cook phoned to say there was a restaurant at Fair Oaks and Marconi for sale – the Sher-e-Punjab. I made a U-turn, came back and talked with the owner.”

If Taj is successful, the plan is to “open a second restaurant downtown,” Singh said. Business has been good so far, in part because of an increasing number of catering jobs.

Menu: What imbues Indian cooking with such an array of distinctive flavors are the sauces and the combinations of spices, both much in evidence here. The standards – chicken and fish curries, lamb vindaloo, chicken and vegetable pakora, lentil soup – are well-organized on the 84-item menu, with 11 specific vegetarian entries. House specialties include chicken tikka masala, tandoori salmon and lamb korma (coconut-cashew sauce).

Price point: Lunch and dinner are at bargain prices, from $3 to $15 for well-handled, freshly prepared dishes in big portions, using all organic vegetables. A bowl of tasty saag paneer (creamed spinach with homemade cheese, $10) served five diners nicely. Bowls of basmati rice were seemingly self-replenishing ($2.50).

Ambiance: For now, there isn’t much, though Singh said more artwork and decorations are coming to supplement the mural and a painting of the Taj Mahal. High ceilings and massive windows help, but still the place has a retro feel (could it be the gigantic booths with pendant lamps?) despite an extensive remodel. The ghost of the Lyons restaurant – the tenant before Sher-e-Punjab – seems to linger.

Drinks: A beer-wine license should be in place in two months, Singh said. Meanwhile, mango juice, Asian chai with seven herbs, and mango lassi (mango and rosewater blended into a yogurt drink) are fine choices.

Service: Fast, professional and attentive without being intrusive.

First impressions: Taj is a welcome addition to the restaurant-hungry Carmichael-Fair Oaks area. Flavors were abundant and spicing was relatively mild (though the heat can be cranked up), but we kept looking for a “wow!” factor.

We tasted a medley of items, including vegetable pakora (cauliflower and other veggies dipped in garbanzo-bean batter and fried), lamb curry (with surprisingly chewy meat), and chicken tikka masala (tender fowl in a soothing sauce). No Indian meal is complete without naan, leavened flatbread traditionally cooked in a tandoor oven. Choose from 10, including one stuffed with minced lamb. A basket of oven-war assorted naan (plain, garlic and onion) was $6.50.

We used the excellent dipping sauces liberally – yogurt-mint, cucumber-yogurt, mango chutney and spicy tamarind. The fiery onion relish was followed by many glasses of iced water. “I keep that one for customers who like really spicy food,” Singh said. Two ice creams – mango and “Indian spices” with a blizzard of coconut powder – were cooling cappers.

Try it if: Indian food is on your list of go-to cuisines, and if you enjoy experimenting at ethnic restaurants.

Forget it if: Spicy food is not your thing, or if your appetite isn’t ready for a spread.


Call The Bee’s Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128. Follow him on Twitter @apierleonisacbe.

Read more articles by Allen Pierleoni



About Appetizers

Chris Macias has served as The Sacramento Bee's Food & Wine writer since 2008. His writing adventures have ranged from the kitchen at French Laundry to helping pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes with migrant farm workers in Lodi. Chris also judges regularly at food, wine and cocktail competitions around Northern California. His profile of a former gangbanger-turned-pastry-chef was included in Da Capo's "Best Food Writing 2012."

Read his Wine Buzz columns here
cmacias@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1253
Twitter: @chris_macias

Allen Pierleoni writes about casual lunchtime restaurants in The Sacramento Bee's weekly "Counter Culture" column. He covers a broad range of topics, including food, travel, books and authors. In addition to writing the weekly column "Between the Lines," he oversees the Sacramento Bee Book Club, in which well-known authors give free presentations to the public.

Read his Counter Culture reviews here
apierleoni@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1128
Twitter: @apierleonisacbe

Blair Anthony Robertson is The Sacramento Bee's food critic.

Read his restaurant reviews here
brobertson@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1099
Twitter: @Blarob


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Note: The Appetizers blog switched blog platforms in August 2013. All posts after the switch are found here. Older posts are available using the list below.

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