Appetizers Food & Dining blog logo
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Jewish Food Faire
Pastrami, anyone? The 37th annual Jewish Food Faire in Carmichael offers many traditional favorites — and pre-orders so you won’t miss out.

Got a craving for perfect pastrami, outrageously good pumpernickel or chopped herring like your Bubbe used to make? We’ve got a deal for you.

Orders are now being accepted for several specialty items from the 37th annual Jewish Food Faire, hosted by Congregation Beth Shalom in Carmichael. In preparation for the Sept. 14 festival, organizers are loading up on many favorites.

“We’re taking pre-orders because by 1 p.m. (of fair day), these things are gone,” said co-chairperson Sheila Wolfe. “These are things we know will sell out early.”

With the theme “Delicious Foods for a Sweet New Year, this year’s fair falls just before the Jewish High Holy Days of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, so the congregation’s many bakers have concentrated on items that would be appropriate for these holidays. Other food stuffs (including many hard to find kosher items) have been imported for sale at the event.

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Keith Owens - Owens Imaging/
A mountain of pork ribs will be sold by 23 professional cookers at the Best in the West Nugget Rib Cook-Off, beginning Wednesday and running through Labor Day.

If you want a smokin’ good time over Labor Day weekend, get your hunger on for the 26th annual Best in the West Nugget Rib Cook-Off.

A Rib Nation of 500,000 ‘cue lovers are expected to converge on the Nugget Casino Resort in Sparks, Nev., Wednesday through Monday, to take on 240,000 pounds of pork ribs, rubbed, smoked and sauced by 23 professional cookers from around the country.

The menu usually goes like this: St. Louis-style pork ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, roasted corn, onion rings, funnel cakes, more ribs and then some more ribs. The cookers serve their ribs with their proprietary ‘cue sauces.

On Sunday, a group of judges will choose the five best rib entries, along with the best sauce. Meanwhile, the public will vote for the people’s choice rib winner.

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Hector Amezcua/ hamezcua@sacbee.com
Patrick Mulvaney, owner and chef Mulvaney’s B&L, will prepare lunch for Mexico’s President Enrique Pena Nieto, Gov. Jerry Brown and 300 other guests today at Stanford Mansion.

Sacramento’s abuzz today with a visit from Mexican President Enrique Pena Nieto. But in between an address to a joint session of the Legislature and other matters of diplomacy, Pena Nieto and fellow politicians will need to eat.

The task of feeding Pena Nieto and other dignitaries, including Gov. Jerry Brown, was bestowed upon Patrick Mulvaney of Mulvaney’s B&L. Mulvaney and his crew are cooking lunch at the Stanford Mansion today, a feast for 300 guests which will highlight the Sacramento area’s seasonal ingredients.

The luncheon will also feature an array of local beverages, including Track 7 Brewing Co.’s IPA and Monkey Knife Fight from Rubicon and, to perk everyone up, Sacramento roasted coffee from Old Soul.

“It’s a bright, simple lunch plate,” said Mulvaney. “We veered toward the idea of: ‘What do we have that’s growing, that’s new and happening right now?’ 

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Chris Macias/ cmacias@sacbee.com
The Goldfield Trading Post menu includes the French dip-style “cowpoke steak sandwich.”
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Chris Macias/ cmacias@sacbee.com
Goldfield Trading Post is a country music club and eatery in Sacramento.

First Impressions visits dining spots in the region that are new or have undergone recent transitions. Have a candidate for First Impressions? Email us at taste@sacbee.com .

Sacramento’s certainly become more cosmopolitan over the past decade, given its welcoming of $12 artisanal grilled cheese sandwiches and impeccably prepared craft cocktails. But make no mistake, y’all: Sacramento’s always been a country kind of town.

The biggest stars in country music can always count on a show in Sacramento, whether it’s Taylor Swift or Tim McGraw. (By comparison, folks had to travel to San Francisco to see Jay-Z and Beyoncé in concert). Much of the country action has taken place in the ‘burbs, through such defunct clubs as In Cahoots and Denim ’n’ Diamonds.

But that country flavor has slowly started to migrate toward the central city, including Stoney Rockin Rodeo on Del Paso Boulevard and the now-shuttered Bulls Restaurant & Bar near 13th and H streets.

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Andy Alfaro/ Sacramento Bee file
The Buggy Whip was a longtime fixture on Fulton Avenue. After closing in 2012, the restaurant is now preparing to reopen.
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Andy Alfaro/ Sacramento Bee file
The Buggy Whip was known for such hearty dinners as steak and prawns (shown here in 2010). Those items are expected to be back on the menu when the restaurant reopens in October.

An iconic Sacramento restaurant is about to make a comeback.

A dining scene fixture for half a century before its 2012 closure, the Buggy Whip is expected to reopen in October at its same location on Fulton Avenue.

“We’re back,” said Larry LeSieur, the Buggy Whip’s longtime owner and now general manager. “We have 50 years of goodwill and we’re going to build on it. People know the Buggy Whip.”

The Buggy Whip’s comeback is welcome news to Sacramento restaurant lovers. Many longtime restaurants close, but very few ever reopen.

Thursday, August 21 2014
A 10-memories salute to chef Julia Child
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James Scherer/ BW
Julia Child was a subject of the PBS series “American Masters” in 2004.

Given that chef Julia Child was born in an August (1912) and passed away in an August (2004), it seems fitting that August should be the unofficial Julia Child Month.

Maybe that’s what the editors at the all-things-food-and-drink website www.thedailymeal.com were thinking when they recently asked 10 chefs and food writers to recall their favorite memories of Julia Child.

One of those recollections, from chef-cookbook author James Villas, goes like this: “Every time I met up with Julia, I knew to bring her a bag of her favorite snack — Pepperidge Farm Goldfish. She could and would consume the entire bag by the time we parted.”

Child, the late chef-cookbook author-TV personality and international icon, once was just another American living with her spouse in Paris. That is, until she quickly fell in love with French cuisine and signed up at the legendary Le Cordon Bleu cooking school. Later, in 1961, she revolutionized the American home kitchen with “Mastering the Art of French Cooking, “ in collaboration with chefs Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck.

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Allen Pierleoni/ apierleoni@sacbee.com
Root 9 “vitality drink” contains red ginseng from South Korea.

For millennia, ginseng has been used as an herbal “remedy” believed to rejuvenate the body and mind, alleviate fatigue and stimulate cognition.

Sacramento entrepreneur Paul Vonasek and his partners are touting their Root 9 ginseng-based “vitality drink” for its “wide range of benefits,” which they say include boosting energy, metabolism, memory and libido.

The product contains “the highest grade of Korean red ginseng,” which is produced in a specific area of South Korea and is aged for six years before going to market.

The zero-calorie, sugar-free drink is lightly carbonated and has an intriguing flavor, akin to a mild strawberry-like taste with a slightly bitter aftertaste. It’s a pleasant alternative to caffeine-heavy energy drinks and cloyingly sweet soda.

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Rudy’s Hideaway/
Rudy’s Hideaway restaurant has a roaming food truck, the Cruzin’ Crustacean, whose menu includes a New England-style lobster roll.

Are you looking for a lobster roll, the New England specialty of Maine lobster heaped on a bun? Aren’t we all?

My story on the lobster roll, which appeared in Wednesday’s Food & Wine section, named three area restaurants that serve the regional sandwich — Ella Dining Room & Bar and Matteo’s Bistro in Sacramento, and the New Haven Pub & Grill in foothills Pollock Pines.

Add Rudy’s Hideaway to the list, the venerable seafood house that sells its lobster roll for $19, describing it as: “Over a quarter-pound of Maine lobster meat sauteed with a pinch of celery and served on a soft toasted roll with natural-cut fries. Drawn butter and mayonnaise on the side.”

The lobster roll is also served out of Rudy’s roaming food truck, the Cruzin’ Crustacean, which has a route of upcoming stops here.

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Chris Macias
Chris Dooley of Ella Dining Room & Bar takes first place at the Midtown Cocktail Week cocktail competition and announces his retirement from the contest circuit.

Chris Dooley of Ella Dining Room & Bar (pictured above) emerged from Midtown Cocktail Week’s cocktail competition $1,000 richer on Tuesday night at Harlow’s. His drink, an elaborately presented “Bloomsbury Bramble” which was surrounded by orchids and looked like a scene from “Fantasy Island,” topped all contendors.

The eight bartenders duking it out cocktail style were actually the finalists from a pool of 24 hopefuls who competed in a preliminary round on Aug. 11. All hopefuls were required to use Tanqueray No. TEN gin in their drink. I helped determine the winner Tuesday night in a judging panel that included Jayson Wilde, a Shady Lady alum and current general manager of Bourbon and Branch in San Francisco, Rick Dobbs (owner of The Last Word in Livermore) and Tanqueray national brand ambassador (and former Sacramentan) Rachel Ford.

Dooley scored big with his spin on a bramble, a classic and fairly sweet gin-based drink that’s synonymous with England and traditionally garnished with blackberries. Dooley enhanced the pronounced citrus notes of the Tanqueray with a bit of Japanese yuzu juice, used a sous vide technique to extract the maximum flavor from the blackberries used in his mix, and added a layer of coconut foam as a topper.

Alycia Rubio of Grange, who tied for third place with Shady Lady’s Travis Kavanaugh, also showed some crafty techniques in her cocktail. Her creation, the “Rusty Pearl,” was like something from The Aviary in Chicago. The cocktail was paired with an amuse bouche (amuse booze?) that incorporated Mission figs cooked sous vide style in averna liqueur, and then formed into a burst-in-your-mouth globule via a reverse spherification technique. The cocktail itself utilized the gin, honey liqueur, fresh cracked pepper and lemon zest. Yes, that’s quite a mouthful of a description, but the important part is the cocktail was done well and deserved to be in the winners’ circle.

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Chris Macias
Chris Dooley’s winning drink from the Midtown Cocktail Week cocktail competition.

Eight of Sacramento’s best bartenders brought their A-game to Harlow’s Tuesday night for the Midtown Cocktail Week cocktail competition.

The drinks includes riffs on the Negroni, some Tiki-inspired cocktails and one with a touch of molecular gastronomy. At stake: $1,000 and some serious bragging rights.

We’ll have more shortly on the night’s proceedings and some words from this year’s cocktail champion. For now, here are the winners:

1st: Chris Dooley of Ella Dining Room & Bar

Wednesday, August 20 2014
Quick and easy sugars hit sweet spots
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C&H Sugar
C&H Sugar’s new flip-top Quick Dissolve Superfine Sugar is perfect for adding to drinks, hot or cold.

Adding a touch of sweetness got a lot easier with two new products from C&H: Quick Dissolve Superfine Sugar and Pourable Golden Brown Sugar.

Rolled out in Sacramento supermarkets this summer, these products both hit their own sweet spot. Ground much finer than table sugar (and 15 calories per teaspoon), the superfine sugar dissolves on contact when added to drinks, hot or cold. That makes it perfect for iced tea, hot tea or even mixing cocktails (when you’re all out of simple syrup but got to have a daiquiri in a hurry). Unlike clumpy packaged brown sugar, this pourable variety flows easily out of the container in individual crystals, just right for sprinkling on oatmeal or over fruit — and only 10 calories per teaspoon.

Packaged in sleek 12-ounce flip-top containers, these sugars don’t take much counter or shelf space either. Suggested retail price is $2.75 for 12 ounces. Learn more and get a discount coupon at C&H Sugar’s official website.

Wednesday, August 20 2014
How many melons can you name?
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Randy Pench/ rpench@sacbee.com
A selection of a few of the many melons is displayed at Maple Rock Gardens on Aug. 7 in Penryn, Calif., as it readies for its first Melon Mania harvest festival on Aug. 23.

Melon Mania is shaping up to be tons of fun and flavor with more than 40 varieties of melon ready to hit their peak of ripeness.

We got a sneak peak of Saturday’s salute to heirloom melons at Maple Rock Gardens in Penryn. The farm and gardens are about 45 minutes from downtown Sacramento.

We saw — and tasted — many melons during our preview with farmer Jakob Stevens, who planted and tends five acres of melons at Maple Rock Gardens.

The whole project was an experiment, said owner Scott Paris. Among many things, it showed that melons actually grow pretty well in Placer County —particularly some of the lesser known heirlooms.

About Appetizers

Chris Macias has served as The Sacramento Bee's Food & Wine writer since 2008. His writing adventures have ranged from the kitchen at French Laundry to helping pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes with migrant farm workers in Lodi. Chris also judges regularly at food, wine and cocktail competitions around Northern California. His profile of a former gangbanger-turned-pastry-chef was included in Da Capo's "Best Food Writing 2012."

Read his Wine Buzz columns here
cmacias@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1253
Twitter: @chris_macias

Allen Pierleoni writes about casual lunchtime restaurants in The Sacramento Bee's weekly "Counter Culture" column. He covers a broad range of topics, including food, travel, books and authors. In addition to writing the weekly column "Between the Lines," he oversees the Sacramento Bee Book Club, in which well-known authors give free presentations to the public.

Read his Counter Culture reviews here
apierleoni@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1128
Twitter: @apierleonisacbe

Blair Anthony Robertson is The Sacramento Bee's food critic.

Read his restaurant reviews here
brobertson@sacbee.com
(916) 321-1099
Twitter: @Blarob


Appetizers Archives

Note: The Appetizers blog switched blog platforms in August 2013. All posts after the switch are found here. Older posts are available using the list below.

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