Chef Vasquez has a solid background working in kitchens, including stints in Las Vegas and San Francisco before becoming executive chef four years ago.
His menu is filled with traditional favorites of American cooking, including filet mignon, pan-roasted salmon, sautéed petrale sole, diver scallops, roasted chicken and a rack of lamb.
On a chilly, blustery autumn night, I especially appreciated balanced flavors of the spicy shrimp-and-sausage rotini, which had equal amounts heartiness and heat – along with ample portions of plump shrimp and andouille sausage. The chef tells me he loves the pairing of sausage and seafood, and it shows. Those flavors, he says, are an influence from his mother, who is from Spain.
The kitchen does not have its own pastry chef, and it, too, shows. The dessert selections are limited and basic. Our favorite was the flourless chocolate cake, which was moist, dense and balanced, though it was presented with a pedestrian dollop of whipped cream and a raspberry on top that made it appear more lowbrow than it tasted.
The wine list covers quality California selections at mostly moderate prices.
The Pilothouse is a large, comfortable, historic space with plenty of windows for looking out at the river. During one visit, we arrived early, in time to watch the light shift on the water as the sun dipped below the horizon. The dining area is relatively quiet, even when a group of 12 arrived and sat next to us, though I was moved to distraction when I heard two of the guests order coffee with their meal.
The service was mixed, which is typical of the city's restaurant scene. One time, the server was pleasant and organized, but on the next visit, another server didn't seem engaged and made us feel rushed. She also stacked the used plates on top of one another while still at the table, a not-so-subtle faux pas.
During both of our visits, our servers would have done better by noting the different elements on the plates, and perhaps a brief description of the cooking, when they delivered the food. My companion, for instance, had forgotten her steak was actually buffalo until the server mentioned it at meal's end. I never realized how nice such descriptions could be until I encountered the very knowing servers at Ambience Restaurant in Carmichael, whose food and cooking notes alone are entertaining, practically poetic.
But the missteps aboard the Delta King are minor. This is a good restaurant and a fun experience. Diners distracted by the restaurant boom in midtown owe it to themselves to try it. It's a quality place, and the differences from our dining hot spots are refreshing.
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