As the weather moves from cool to cooler, our cravings turn from chilled gazpacho to hot comfort foods such as mac ’n’ cheese. Our go-to is at OneSpeed, where executive chef Steve Linares consults his alchemist’s handbook for a rendition he originally concocted during his years at a New York restaurant “where we sold probably 200 a day. It got into the New York Times.”
The made-to-order showpiece involves Mornay sauce, elbow macaroni and “a bunch of different cheeses, depending on what we have,” Linares said. Be smart and add a hit of crisp house-made pancetta. The mixture is topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and mozzarella, and baked in a cast-iron skillet until the cheeses bubble and the breadcrumbs brown.
$9 at lunch and dinner, 4818 Folsom Blvd., 916-706-1748, www.onespeedpizza.com