Walking into Meadowlands, the new restaurant housed in the 19th-century roadhouse long known as the Old Sloughhouse Inn, makes one immediately crave meat – just as the miners who once stopped here must have.
It’s hard to imagine roadhouse kitchens in the salt-pork era offering preparations as sophisticated as those involved in Meadowlands’ $29 grilled ribeye, however. Red wine jus and herbed butter lend this steak tremendous flavor and seal in its juices.
I usually prefer steaks grilled at home to those ordered out, since restaurant seasoning tends toward the timid. This is a tasty exception.
$29, 12700 Meiss Road, just off Jackson Road (Highway 16), Sloughhouse, 916-525-1575, www.meadowlands.restaurant