Appetizers

April 23, 2014

‘Indulgences’ live up to name

New treat from Breyers combines sauce and toppings into gelato.

Appetizers

Dishing the news about the Sacramento area food scene

In the cold world of ice cream, texture is the new frontier. Simply smooth is not enough; new flavors have to have something more.

Breyers makes the first frozen foray into new warm weather treats for 2014 with Gelato Indulgences. In four dessert-inspired combinations, these Indulgences live up to their name with mixtures of sauce, gelato and topping all swirled into the same 28.5-ounce see-through plastic tub. The flavor profiles:

• Vanilla Caramel: Creamy vanilla gelato topped with caramel sauce and crunchy caramel curls.

• Raspberry Cheesecake: Cheesecake gelato striped with raspberry sauce and graham cracker crumble.

• Tiramisu: Mascarpone gelato swirled with espresso sauce, a layer of ladyfinger cookie pieces and sprinkled with gourmet cocoa.

• Triple Chocolate: Two gelatos — milk chocolate and dark chocolate — combined with white chocolate sauce and chocolate curls. (Shouldn’t that be Quadruple Chocolate?)

In our taste test, the gelato had a light frothy texture (not heavy like high-fat ice creams); the sauces were candy sweet. The bits of ladyfinger in the Tiramisu stayed soft and cake-like; with the pleasant mix of mocha flavors, it was our favorite. But all four were yummy.

The squat plastic tub made it easier to find the swirls of sauce and crunchy bits; better for dividing up the layers among ice cream bowls.

With weather rapidly warming, these Indulgences undoubtedly will be savored. Priced at $4.49 to $5.99, look for them in the freezer case of major grocery stores.

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