Gerardo Gonzalez chars onions for his burned-almond mole, which he pairs with octopus at Lalo. Around the world, chefs are pushing the envelope on burned foods.
Gerardo Gonzalez chars onions for his burned-almond mole, which he pairs with octopus at Lalo. Around the world, chefs are pushing the envelope on burned foods. COLE WILSON The New York Times
Gerardo Gonzalez chars onions for his burned-almond mole, which he pairs with octopus at Lalo. Around the world, chefs are pushing the envelope on burned foods. COLE WILSON The New York Times

Charred, browned, blackened: The dark lure of burned food

January 26, 2017 9:00 PM

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