"There's something we see increase every year," he said. "People want to dress more comfortable.

"Along with all the changes in culinary style, and along with all the increased talent in the kitchen, everyone in the industry has seen the same thing. Most people don't want to dress up to eat out."

Not that his customers aren't totally presentable, and not that this is a complaint from a man whose restaurant has a courtyard and those chickens nearby. But Kassis does see the irony.

As this region – and, really, this country – has grown increasingly sophisticated in its culinary tastes, people feel less and less the need to look sophisticated.

We were talking about Sacramento's restaurant scene, not the who's-hot, who's-not stuff, but about how the palate and sensibilities of the region have evolved, particularly in recent years.

Kassis is a good person for this. He and his Slocum House are regarded by restaurateurs around Sacramento as one of the bedrock fine dining spots, a popular eatery that's well regarded for both food and service.

Kassis, 57, bought and reopened Slocum House in Old Fair Oaks Village in 1986, but his culinary roots stretch deep to his family's grocery business started in the 1930s. It began with a roadside stand and grew into the 12-store Stop-N-Shop chain. His father, Frank, was the first developer of Arden Fair and created the Food Circus in the 1960s.

So Kassis has seen loads of Sacramento people eat, and he said tastes here have long been aimed at fresh food.

"Sacramento always had the reputation as a meat-and-potato place. I've never gone along with that," he said. "I think what we have is people who really know and enjoy good beef. We've always had some of that farm-to-table connection, because we've always had access to good products."

But when he reopened Slocum House in 1986 – it had been a restaurant with the same name from 1977 to 1985, then closed for a year – Sacramento, like much of America, wanted its food lines clearly drawn, because that was what people knew, he said.

This region had classic French, Italian, Mexican, seafood or straightforward American-style restaurants, he said, plus smaller ethnic eateries, particularly Asian. The fine-dining scene then was headlined by Wulff's, the Firehouse and Aldo's.

"Through much of the 1980s, he said, "people were comfortable ordering food they knew."

But change was coming. By the early 1990s, the population of the region grew with people from outside the area, as restaurant offerings expanded.

"When people are exposed to something, they'll try it," Kassis said. "We've watched our customers' palates change as they were exposed to new foods and styles."

Here's the arc he described. By 1991, Slocum House and many fine-dining spots were blending California fresh food with classic Italian or French sauces. Over the next few years, the cuisine became even more regional and the spicing started to increase and vary, often with fresh herbs and aromatic spices.

By the new century, many restaurants used fusion forms, blending fresh foods with a variety of styles from Asian to Italian on the same menu. Peppers and even bigger spices became popular. And these days, Kassis says, Sacramento eaters are full-blown adventurers.

"We've watched people go from mild versions of what was acceptable 20 years ago to having very aggressive palates," he said. "Now they'll try so many things. So we need to be aggressive with a few dishes, give them chilies or innovative twists."

Where did that communal daring come from? Kassis said it's part national, part local.

"The Food Network and the Travel Channel have been huge in showing people different foods and teaching them about food," he said. "And in Sacramento, we've got so much great talent in kitchens all over the area."

And it's not just the big names, he said. It's the small, neighborhood places, Kassis said, like Ettore's, Gönül's, the Greek Village, Evan's Kitchen, Andy Nguyen, La Bonne Soupe Cafe, Dianda's Italian Bakery & Cafe, Karen's Bakery and more.

"Our customers know food now, all kinds of food, and they aren't intimidated," he said.

"And there's a snowball effect. People are learning more and demanding more. It's only going to get better for everybody who loves to eat."

Call The Bee's Rick Kushman, (916) 321-1187. Listen to him Tuesdays at 8:40 a.m. on NewsTalk 1530 (KFBK).