SAN FRANCISCO – This is how to start a good day: You walk through the grand lobby of the St. Francis Hotel, feeling regal just because you're there.

Then you go through the tall revolving door and into the crisp, noisy sunshine of Powell Street and the bright, open cityscape around Union Square.

There's a bell and a rumble as a cable car rolls past, not yet crammed with hanging passengers. People walk by, fast going downhill to the right, purposeful going up.

Huge, textured buildings lie in every direction. Some shine with glass, some are old, some have ornate stone facades. And right there, just standing on the street, you are connected to life.

A million things have been written about San Francisco, truckloads on how to embrace it, feel its magic, spend some precious time in its grip. Nothing is more to the point than the suggestion to spend a day or two at Union Square during the holiday season.

If you're jumping head-first into the holiday spirit, here's a dream day. It assumes some shopping. Whether it's expensive stuff, gifts or bargains, 'tis the season at Union Square.

But it's morning still, and you're staying at the Westin St. Francis because it is the grand dame of Union Square, a high-shouldered, multifaceted building.

(Hint: Most S.F. hotels have holiday deals, and because they thrive on business travelers, often the best deals involve Thursday, Friday or Saturday nights.)

So, you're outside and it's breakfast time. You can eat at Emporio Rulli Café, right in Union Square, hit one of the Starbucks or Peet's on just about every block – really, every block – but on this day, head uphill to Sears Fine Foods, a 70-year institution.

You'll find a line – even in the rain – but it moves quickly. The room is tall, airy and vaguely Victorian, which is the default description around Union Square.

As long as you're at this institution, try the calling card dish, Swedish pancakes. You get 18. They're small and light, plus you can tell people you ate 18 pancakes.

(If the line is too daunting, the café inside the Chancellor Hotel, right next door, will be less crowded.)

When you're done, grab a cable car to ride before they get impossibly crowded – or walk through Union Square. Really look all around; see the buildings; revel in being there.

People will be skating in the ice rink, but it's too early for you. Instead, head to the corner of Powell and Geary streets, and go inside the Weinstein art gallery. There are paintings from Marc Chagall and Joan Miró, etchings from Pablo Picasso. Much of that block of Geary has galleries, by the way.

After a little culture, how about a little commerce? Pick your poison: Macy's, Neiman Marcus, Border's, Saks Fifth Avenue, Levi's, Niketown, Williams-Sonoma, Borders, Victoria's Secret, Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior. Those are just the names facing Union Square. Go a block east to Grant and it multiplies and gets a tad less rarified. A tad.

Shopping will make you hungry. For lunch, good spots include Emporio Rulli again, Lefty O'Doul's on Geary, or the hot dog stands all around. But I say head for Burger Bar on the sixth floor of Macy's.

It's owned by Hubert Keller, famed chef-owner of Fleur de Lys and a finalist on Bravo's "Top Chef: Masters." But the main reason to go is the wall of windows looking over Union Square and up at the skyline.

Glorianne and John Powell live in Pacific Heights and were there last weekend to take a look.

"We never go to the tourist spots," Glorianne said. "But this is great. I don't even mind that there's a $60 burger."

It's true. A $60 hamburger – with shaved truffles, Kobe beef and sautéed foie gras. Or there's a $9.50 burger – beef, turkey or veggie. And the milkshakes look like art.

(Hint: Try for a table in the bar. Way better windows than the dining room. On weekends, get to lunch before 1 p.m.)

By midafternoon, it's time for a snack or a beer or glass of wine. You're in The City; live it up. Two ideas:

© Copyright The Sacramento Bee. All rights reserved.

Call The Bee's Rick Kushman, (916) 321-1187. Listen to him Tuesdays at 8:40 a.m. on NewsTalk 1530 (KFBK).