Down in the Sacramento Delta, it feels more like a forgotten Rust Belt town than a prime spot for wine sipping.
The outside of the Old Sugar Mill could've come from Billy Joel's "Allentown" video. Massive white mounds of lime are piled near the parking lot, and an adjacent brick building is pockmarked with broken windows. How about a toast to the glory days of industrialism?
But we can say "salud" to this once-operational sugar mill, which is now home base for tasting wine from the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta. The renovated Old Sugar Mill in Clarksburg has become something of a food court for Delta wine.
Step inside this long brick building and you'll find tasting rooms for several wineries: Carvalho Family Wines, Heringer Estates, French Hill, Todd Taylor and Revolution Wines. Solomon Wine Co., which is headquartered in Modesto, pours three of its labels whose grapes come from the Murphys area.
That's to say you can get a whole lot of sips in a single visit, and one that's about a 20-minute drive south from downtown Sacramento.
The Old Sugar Mill is also a popular location for weddings, and a lawn area out back is good for picnics and the occasional concert.
So right about now, we've got a thirst for some Delta wine. The plan is to hit two tasting rooms – it's a Thursday, which means only three of the rooms are open – and start with Heringer Estates.
The air smells of oak barrels, which are stacked in the background of Heringer Estates' tasting room, and it feels like the temperature has dropped about 20 degrees. The room has a warehouse kind of vibe with brick walls and steel storage tanks.
Service for tasting is brisk and friendly, so friendly that we're diplomatic when asked about the pinot noir's taste. Let's just say that it's a good idea to pass on pinot noir that's grown in the Delta. Stick with the 2006 Chenin Blanc ($13) for its clean grapefruit flavors.
Carvalho Family Wines is situated at the end of the Old Sugar Mill's hallway. Like Heringer Estates, the service was cheery, and the room looks like a gift shop landed in a brick-walled warehouse. Crackers and water are also available to clear the palate, which was good after tasting the dense but enjoyable 2005 petite sirah ($21).
The Old Sugar Mill also features some of the smallest pours around – we're talking very modest mouthfuls. With the potential to taste from six wineries, these small pours are likely a strategy so customers don't end up in the Old Drunk Tank. The downside: These dinky drinks make it tough to get a sense of the wine's full bouquet.
The upside of the Old Sugar Mill is that you can get down with some Delta wine without having to spend much time on the winding South River Road. Even if the Old Sugar Mill lacks some homespun charm, its convenience is a pretty sweet deal.
Call Bee food and wine writer Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.
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