These herbs – many of them perennials – should survive winter weather in the Sacramento Valley. Most will make it in the chillier foothills, too, while continuing to provide fresh flavors through January and February.

ARUGULA (Eruca): This leafy, green salad herb comes both in annual and perennial forms. The latter (Eruca vesicaria ssp.sativa) prefers cool weather, which makes it ideal for winter. Nicknamed rocket, arugula adds peppery zing to mixed greens.

How to grow: Arugula likes full sun, good soil with light fertilizing, and regular watering to keep it lush. Best when leaves are immature; keep arugula trim with regular pinching and use.

BAY LAUREL (Laurus nobilis): This is the sweet bay laurel, which has been used since Roman times. The strong- flavored leaves, which dry and keep well, add intense flavor to stews, soups, pasta sauce and marinades. Its native California cousin also can be used in cooking, but it's more intense – almost overpowering – when dried.

How to grow: Laurel is a Mediterranean native that can be trained into a three-foot bush. It's drought-tolerant, needs full sun and can take poor soil. Left on its own, it can become a 40-foot tree. There are both male and female laurel trees; one of each is needed to produce seeds, which are roasted like nuts. Sweet bay laurel is not completely hardy. It can also be grown in a large container, so it can be moved to protect it from threat of hard frost (below 24 degrees).

GARLIC (Allium sativum): Plant on the shortest day, harvest on the longest; that's garlic's basic timeline. That means plant the bulbs on Dec. 21 or thereabouts. While the cloves are forming underground, the green tops can be a winter substitute for chives, which have only a 50-50 chance of staying green through winter. Or try garlic chives (Allium tuberosum), which are a hardier cousin of common chives (Allium Schoenoprasum). Garlic is a universal seasoning in many cuisines.

How to grow: Sandy, well-drained soil and lots of sun produce plump garlic cloves. Garlic is at home in borders or containers.

ITALIAN (FLAT) PARSLEY (Petroselinum crispum): While its curly cousin can't take the cold, flat parsley usually over-winters here. It does everything curly parsley does – only more so. Italian cooks swear prezzemolo has more flavor.

How to grow: A biennial, parsley takes two seasons to produce seed. Planted as a seedling now, it should continue to thrive until fall 2010 – then reseed itself and sprout anew. Under a foot high, it makes a natural border plant and is quite happy grown in a medium (6- to 8-inch) container at least 6 inches deep. It does well with average water and average soil. Full sun works best.

MEXICAN TARRAGON (Tagetes lucida): While French tarragon will die down every winter, this Mexican alternative – which is actually a member of the marigold family – thrives in fall and winter. It's good in sauces, salad dressings and vinegar as well as with poultry or veal. Tarragon (either French or Mexican) loses its flavor when dried.

How to grow: Under a foot tall, this perennial prefers full sun, but will tolerate some shade. It likes well-drained, preferably rich soil, and does well in borders or containers.

OREGANO (Origanum vulgare hirtum): Another Italian native, this low-growing herb is a must for pasta sauces, pizza and marinades, but is also wonderful in soups, salads and meat dishes. It's widely used in Mexican cuisine, too. The Italian variety over-winters best. OK dried, but better fresh.

How to grow: This perennial likes full sun and sandy, fast-draining soil. It's usually under 6 inches, but can spread over time. Start from cuttings or divisions. Trim back in spring to encourage new growth.

ROSEMARY (Rosemarinus officinalis): If you like lamb or Greek cooking, rosemary is a must. The leaves, dried or fresh, add rich, intense flavor to winter roasts and stews. Strong straight stems make great skewers, adding flavor to broiled or grilled meat or veggies. Several other culinary rosemary varieties are also available. This plant is also handsome in Mediterranean landscapes.

Call The Bee's Debbie Arrington, (916) 321-1075.