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  • Courtesy of Jill Maddux

    Lone Buffalo Vineyards

  • Courtesy of Jill Maddux

    Lone Buffalo Vineyards' tasting room is in a converted garage.

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Tasting Room: Lone Buffalo Vineyards tries to beat the herd

Published: Wednesday, Apr. 1, 2009 - 12:00 am | Page 3D

We've spent plenty of time trekking through the region's wine country: El Dorado County, the Sacramento Delta, Lodi, Amador County. But here's one locale that hasn't received much love: Placer County.

This region is generating a little buzz lately, with Casque Wines from Loomis nabbing a "best of class" award at the recent San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. But on this day, we're seeking a Placer County winery that's looking to make its own purple-stained mark on local wine culture.

So it's time to rev the car and head up Interstate 80, about 35 minutes from downtown Sacramento, and exit in Newcastle. We're looking for Lone Buffalo Vineyards, a family-run winery less than 10 minutes from Old Town Auburn.

Cruising around these Placer hills feels refreshing on this sunny spring day, with all the sweeping views of the valley below. This wine country also winds through some swanky-looking housing developments, and for a second we wonder if Lone Buffalo Vineyards' tasting room is located in someone's house.

That turns out to be correct. Lone Buffalo Vineyards resides in a mixed residential-agricultural area, and wine tasting takes place in a refurbished garage. But it's not like you're navigating around tool chests and lawnmowers to get some sips. This garage was refurbished into a winery and tasting area that has a kind of shabby chic feel. Corrugated metal from Loomis' Blue Goose Fruit Shed lines the walls, which also are punctuated with American Indian art and buffalo motifs.

The mighty buffalo sums up the spirit of proprietors Phillip and Jill Maddux. Phillip's been a winemaker for more than 30 years, nabbing numerous home winemaking awards, until Lone Buffalo Vineyards was bonded in 2007. But making wine in Placer County requires some resiliency. Winemaking in these parts went extinct in these parts after Prohibition and is only slowly regaining its footing. Placer County now boasts about a dozen wineries, with more on the way.

"We said that we wanted to be the lone buffalo, planting our vines while the herd gets strong," says Jill Maddux.

Lone Buffalo Vineyards is still a small wine producer, growing 2 acres of grapes. The couple expect to craft 550 cases this year. Zinfandel, viognier and tempranillo grow in the sloping vineyards behind the Madduxes' house, with other fruit sourced from Fair Play and other vineyards around Placer County.

Each of its wines has a buffalo theme – including 2008 Bison Blanc Viognier ($18) and 2007 Where the Buffalo Roam ($18) – and some of these bottles are literally big beasts. The estate-bottled 2007 Thunder Beast Zinfandel ($20) packs a 15.8 percent alcohol, but its raspberry fruit and oaky flavors aren't overly smothered. On the flip side, the 2007 Tatonka Tempranillo ($22) – named after the Lakota Sioux word for bison – carries a modest 13.7 percent alcohol but also tasted slightly underripe to this palate.

But here's a reason to take the herd to Lone Buffalo Vineyards: the 2007 Where the Buffalo Roam Rhone-style red ($18). This medium-bodied mix of Placer County syrah, mourvedre and grenache smells juicy and slightly spicy, and tastes especially balanced with its upfront fruit.

"I think we're undiscovered," says winemaker Phillip Maddux about Placer County. "We've got a nice microclimate and decomposed- granite soil. We're making some pretty good wines."


Call Bee food and wine writer Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253. LONE BUFFALO VINEYARDS • 2682 Burgard Lane, Auburn • Tasting hours: By appointment only • Cost: Free • Information: (916) 663-4486


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