In our garden, little by little, every tomato plant but one has been cut off right at soil level. I put protective wiring around the base of the one plant that's left. It looks as if it must be a rodent of some kind; the "cut" is at an angle as if pruned. It only happens at night, so I doubt squirrels can be blamed. Maybe related to this, all our nicely blooming marigolds disappeared completely in the same garden, but there was no evidence – no gopher holes, no cut-off stems. They were just completely gone. About a week ago, we had a raccoon prowling around on the roof. Is that a suspect? Help!

– Randall of Newcastle

When raccoons bother a garden, they dig in the soil looking for earthworms or other insects; they may damage plants in the process, but you would know of their presence by the disturbed earth, says UC Master Gardener Bill Pierce.

Skunks might enter a garden, but when they feed or hunt, they make a mess and scatter things about.

This might be vole or meadow mouse damage.

For information on voles, please send a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope to: PN 7439, UC Cooperative Extension, 4145 Branch Center Road, Sacramento, CA 95827. This information is also available at www.ipm.ucdavis.edu.

As for the tomatoes, the culprit could also be a cutworm. Next season, use a cutworm collar around the stem of each tomato plant and see if the problem stops.

We have an old camellia that we had to transplant two years ago from a large pot to the ground. It hasn't died, but it hasn't bloomed again, and it doesn't look healthy. Leaves are sparse and there hasn't been much new growth. It looks twiggy. We were wondering if we could prune it back to sort of start over. If so, should this be done when it's dormant? I hate to lose this beautiful old friend.

– Bette of Sacramento

According to UC Master Gardener Veronica Simpson, two important things to consider are whether you planted in well-drained soil rich in organic material and whether the top of the rootball is below the soil line.

Camellias do best when sheltered from strong, hot and dry winds and direct afternoon sun. 

Also, verify that the irrigation water is penetrating the soil in the root zone and that new root growth has occurred. When planted, the roots should have been loosened to encourage growth out into the new planter area.

Pruning to remove dead or weak wood should be done right after flowering, from spring through summer. 

Cutting back the top to help the "twiggy" look, make the cut just above a scar from the previous year's growth.

Next spring, fertilize after the blooming cycle using a commercial plant food for acid-loving plants. Water before feeding and don't overfertilize. Be sure to follow label directions.

I took your advice and hung out the 1-gallon milk jug with the vinegar-molasses-and- ammonia mixture in my apple tree earlier this year. The mixture has now pretty well dried up, but the apples are still on the tree. I've only found two apples so far that have been infested. Do I need to renew the mixture?

– Bob of Auburn

Unfortunately, codling moths have up to six generations each year in the greater Sacramento region, says UC Master Gardener Bill Pierce. You need to bait for them from late April through September.

For information on this easy, environmentally friendly way for homeowners to gain some control over codling moth damage to their apple and pear trees, send a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope to PN 7412, UC Cooperative Extension, 4145 Branch Center Road, Sacramento, CA 95827. This information is also available at www.ipm.ucdavis.edu.