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Liquid Assets - 11/04/09

Published: Wednesday, Nov. 4, 2009 - 12:00 am | Page 3D
Last Modified: Wednesday, Nov. 4, 2009 - 9:16 am

What wine goes with … meatloaf?

OK, that's not a pairing we think about much. After all, we're talking meatloaf, as in the TV dinner and cafeteria staple, not dry-aged Wagyu beef.

But as the cover of this week's Food & Wine section shows, meatloaf is the latest example of comfort food undergoing a resurgence and making its way to a white-tablecloth restaurant near you. These aren't mishmashes of mystery meat, but meatloaf made from prime ingredients.

So if you're ordering meatloaf and want to aim for a wine pairing, there are a couple of ways to go. One is to choose a wine with enough heft and body to match your hearty dish. Another is to choose a wine with a lighter body but brimming with good acidity.

"Meatloaf is a pretty versatile dish that can pair with a lot of wines," says Matthew Walker, wine director for Hawks restaurant in Granite Bay. "I'd lean toward wines from southern Rhone or northern Italy. They have enough fruit, but there's also some acid that'll cut through the fat. Or you can go in the other direction with a local zinfandel. The spice in the meatloaf can be enhanced with a spicier wine."

Here are three meatloaf-friendly wines to consider. And if you want to skip the meatloaf altogether, these wines should pair well with any savory red-meat dish coming from your kitchen.

Castello Monaci 2006 Maru Negroamaro

(13 percent alcohol, $13.99)

Not overly fruity, but shows flavors of plum, spice and oak that'll add depth to that hunk of meatloaf. Bonus marks for its pronounced acidity. Available at BevMo stores.

Le Colombier 2007 Vacqueyras Cuvee "G"

(14 percent alcohol, $25)

Refresh your palate between bites of meatloaf with this medium-bodied blend of grenache and syrah from the southern Rhone. The berry flavors and touch of spice are especially nice. Available at 58 Degrees and Holding Co. (1217 18th St., Sacramento; 916-442-5858).

C.G. Di Arie 2005 Southern Exposure Zinfandel

(14.7 percent alcohol, $35)

A full-flavored Amador County zinfandel that's benefiting from bottle age. Get a whiff of the luscious nose, with smooth tastes of blueberries and a dash of pepper. Is your meatloaf worthy of a special occasion? If so, this is your wine. www.cgdiarie.com.

– Chris Macias, Bee food and wine writer


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