One of the hottest seasonal banquets around doesn't cost money and isn't taking reservations: It's the annual holiday meal held Dec. 24 at the Veterans Memorial Center in Davis.
Hundreds of diners line up for the chance to enjoy a free buffet and celebrate the season with community members from all walks of life. As Americans focus on enjoying simpler things this holiday season, this Davis tradition stands out like a beacon.
"Everyone is welcome and everyone comes," says Ellen Pontac, a longtime holiday meal volunteer. "Homeless people come, and people who really need a meal, but mostly people who want to get together as a community."
The holiday meal turns 24 this year. Originally begun by two Davis Food Co-op employees far from home at Christmas, the event has grown to gigantic proportions.
Some years, as many as 800 participants line up for a place at one of the long tables in the city-owned Vets building, which holds less than half that number of diners at a time.
The meal and festivities – including musical entertainment – are all free, but the event actually makes money.
Donations from individuals and businesses add up to sizable contributions that event coordinators are able to pass on to organizations like the Short Term Emergency Aid Committee and Davis Community Meals that serve needy local residents. Last year's event brought in around $15,000, according to Shelly Bailes, the holiday meal's donations coordinator.
While the Davis Food Co-op has been instrumental in sponsoring the holiday meal, it also has generous partners in the effort. Co-op suppliers annually provide all the food for the meal's main courses, which volunteers cook in shifts at the Veterans building beginning midmorning on Christmas Eve.
Holiday décor was originally lent and then finally donated by International House Davis, and Davis Waldorf School students and their families do the decorating, says Julie Cross, the Co-op's education coordinator. Institutional food supplier Sodexho supplies equipment for the feast, and the city of Davis donates use of the building.
There's even competition for volunteering. This year's volunteer sign-up begins at the Davis Food Co-op on Nov. 30. It takes more than a hundred volunteers to cook turkey, ham and vegan entrees, package holiday favors, decorate the hall and serve the meal, but for many participants, helping out is an annual tradition and volunteer slots go fast.
Local performers provide free music and entertainment. One volunteer shift ties bundles of nuts and candies into squares of fabric to hand out as holiday favors. Another group of volunteers cleans up afterward.
"There are so many volunteers and so many families that want to volunteer that people practically stand in line to sign up," says Pontac. "We have three generations serving at the same time. It's really lovely – and the desserts are all homemade. People bring desserts."
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