SOUTH LAKE TAHOE – A certain gated community here boasts a surprising number of award-winning cooks.

Inmates taking culinary classes at the El Dorado County jail have baked their way to 20 ribbons and one "best of show" at the county fair.

With a growing reputation for mouthwatering cookies, cakes, pies and other pastries, the jail's unusual culinary arts program is known for its unofficial motto: "It's so good, it's a crime."

The jail and Lake Tahoe Community College launched the program in June 2007 to help inmates develop marketable job skills. Inmates are taught in the jail's kitchen by a correctional cook and supervisor Jeannette Shippee.

Shippee, who suggested the culinary classes, also is an adjunct instructor with the college.

Offering vocational training in a jail where inmates stay only weeks or months is a challenge. But officials say if the more than 95 percent of offenders returning to communities can't find jobs, they're likely to end up back behind bars.

"We want to put a floor under these people when they get out," said sheriff's Lt. Randy Peshon, commander of the 158-bed jail.

That's what Don Mendez, 46, was looking for when he signed up. One of six students in the jail's baking and pastry class, he leaned over a cutting board during a recent session, rapidly chopping nuts for a German chocolate cake.

"Unfortunately, this is not my first time here," said Mendez, an 11-year resident of South Lake Tahoe. "This class gives me an opportunity not to come back."

He hopes the classes will help him find a job that eventually leads to opening his own restaurant, one that specializes in omelettes.

Steve Parker, inmate services officer, said 36 people have completed culinary arts classes, which generally are offered only to nonviolent offenders.

Rafael Camacho, 21, finished classes at the jail in January. He said he initially had trouble finding work because of the poor economy. "But when I went to McDonald's and showed them my certificate (in food safety), they were impressed," he said.

He's training to be a manager at one of the restaurants and hopes to take culinary classes at community college.

Superior Court Judge Suzanne Kingsbury is a strong advocate of the vocational training but says she makes it clear to those who enroll that participation gives them no special status with the court.

"They are doing it for themselves and no one else," Kingsbury said.

The students serve as the jail's kitchen crew, which counts toward work-experience credits. Their 12-hour shifts include class time as well as inmate meal preparation.

In addition to offering certification courses in food safety, the program allows its students to earn college credits.

Shawn Stenzel, 19, said he wanted to get something out of his jail stay "besides just sitting around." He's earned about a quarter of the credits required for a culinary arts degree.

Parker said nine of the culinary students also have earned their GED, or high school equivalency certificate, while in custody.

During a recent class, each two-person team was assigned to make two cake recipes of their own choosing and a batch of cupcakes.

Teo Uribe, 23, said he has been cooking for years. "I like experimenting with different kinds of dough and icings," Uribe said. "I like the science of baking."

He's in jail for selling drugs – "just stupid choices," he said. Now he wants to attend community college and work in the culinary field.

Stephen Fernald, director of the college's culinary arts program, said he is pleased with the jail program. Some participants later became his students at the college, and he has employed some as classroom and kitchen assistants.

"I'm much more interested in giving people an opportunity than in what their potential for failure might be," Fernald said.

The program is funded through a contract with the college. Because Shippee teaches the jail classes during her work hours for the Sheriff's Department, the college pay she ordinarily would receive as an instructor goes to cover student fees, cooking equipment and other materials for the classes. Any remaining money goes into the county's general fund.

The culinary arts program has generated about $5,000 for the county's general fund to date, Parker said.

Sheriff Jeff Neves said the South Lake Tahoe jail is a testing ground for inmate education programs, including a new one in building and landscape maintenance. Developing the necessary collaboration among the jail, court, college and employers is easier in a small, close-knit community, Neves said.

Making those key community connections means going out and shaking a lot of hands, Peshon said.

"Culinary arts helps," he said, "because you can bring cookies."

Call The Bee's Cathy Locke, (916) 608-7451.