At sunset Monday, Passover commences, raising the question, What wines are to be poured during a Seder meal? Daniel Rogov, author of the annual book "Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines," has 50 kosher answers, which he provided to the magazine Reform Judaism.

Even Rogov acknowledges that as recently as a decade ago the prospect of assembling a list of 50 kosher wines worth recommending for Passover would have left him trying to stifle a giggle fit.

But kosher wines today are far different than the simple, cloying Concord-based wines of past Passovers. Most are dry, refined and capable of competing with non-kosher wines on the competition circuit.

While Rogov's list of 50 kosher wines fitting for the Passover Seder favors Israeli wines, he doesn't overlook Napa Valley's HaGafen Cellars, which placed six wines in his roundup, from a $38 cabernet sauvignon to a $17 sauvignon blanc. HaGafen is the only California winery to make the list, though Rogov chose two California wines by Herzog Wine Cellars of Oxnard, a cabernet sauvignon and a syrah, for a separate list of "12 best buys." Each of the Herzog wines sells for $13.